A Texan in Tibet - Hoping History Doesn't Repeat Itself

"The scientific theory I like best is that the rings of Saturn are composed entirely of lost airline luggage." 

- Mark Russell

When I flew to Australia in 2016, I redeemed AAdvantage miles on Qantas, which is an American Airlines code share partner.  When you cash in miles for international travel, it's common to get stuck with crappy flights with long connections.  Instead of a direct flight out of DFW, I had to connect through LAX, but I saw it as a small price to pay for round trip first class seats.  The connection included hours of layover time, which I used to ensure my luggage made it into the Qantas baggage system.  I'll explain.

The Delta Baggage Solution

Just prior to that Oz trip, I spent 18 months developing and deploying a first-of-its-kind global baggage tracking solution for Delta Air Lines.  Anyone who flies frequently has experienced lost checked bags; as if flying in a post-911 world isn't stressful enough.  During that Delta engagement, I was exposed to all levels of the airline baggage handling beast and I found it fascinating.  The system is so convoluted and complex that the fact that our bags actually make it anywhere truly amazes me.  I was well aware that Qantas did not have a sophisticated baggage tracking system like Delta's and armed with my newfound knowledge of the risks for baggage loss, I was inspired to take matters into my own hands in an attempt to mitigate the risk of my bags getting lost during the transfer from a domestic American Airlines flight over to the international terminal and into the Qantas baggage system.  At DFW, I checked my bags to LAX, retrieved them there, carried them to the Qantas ticket counter in the international terminal, personally checked them in there, and then patted myself on the back.  The baggage transfer loss risk was mitigated to the greatest possible extent to which I could contribute.

My Ride to Brisbane

Fast forward a few hours and I'm in the boarding line for my flight.  When the gate agent scanned my boarding pass, I got the buzz-of-death alert and a flashing red light on the podium.  Yeah, I was that guy in the line at whom other passengers impatiently rolled their eyes and sighed aloud.  I had to step out of the line, go the gate counter, and try to have whatever it was resolved.  The gate agent had a confused, but not overly concerned expression as he furiously typed away at the keyboard.  I admit I felt a bit helpless and somewhat angry, yet all I could do was stand there and try not to piss off the one guy who stood between me and my dream trip to Australia. A few minutes later, I was back in the boarding lane, but my seat assignment had changed.  I was too relieved to complain or even comment and as luck would have it, when I boarded, I discovered that I was one of only two passengers in the entire first class cabin.  So why the seat change?  My ADD mind quickly diverted attention from the seat assignment and focused on all the buttons, storage compartments, and amenities that my micro apartment-sized first class seat had to offer.  I was on my way, drink in hand, and kicked back to enjoy my flight with the confidence that I had taken the proper the steps to ensure nothing could go wrong.

I landed in Brisbane 14 hours later, having gotten just enough sleep while flying to awaken on Australian morning time, thus avoiding having to deal with jet lag.  Another part of the plan successfully executed.  I cleared customs, headed to the baggage claim carousel, and waited.

And waited.

Eventually, having stood alone at the carousel for almost an hour after the rest of my flight's passengers had dispersed, I found myself being surrounded by hundreds of Asians whose flight from Japan had recently landed and were waiting for their baggage to arrive.  18 hours prior, I was patting myself on the back.  Now I was kicking myself in the butt.  I wandered over to the Qantas baggage office and once again, got in a line.  Once I was able to talk with an agent, I learned that my bags were never loaded onto the plane at LAX.  The agent explained that this is not uncommon when bags have to be transferred from one airline to another.  I calmly and politely replied that I retrieved my bags from American Airlines at LAX and then personally checked them in at the Qantas counter.  She then said that the other time this sometimes happens is when bags are checked-in too close to an international flight's departure.  I pointed to the hours-before-departure check-in time printed on the baggage receipts and (once again) calmly shook my head.  After feverishly clicking the keys on her terminal, she finally told me that the real reason this happened was because my reservation had somehow been canceled between the time I checked my bags and attempted to board hours later.  My mind was spinning.  This explained the gate agent's confusion back at LAX.  How he was able to resolve the issue and get me onboard an international flight in first class still escapes me. "No problem", the Qantas baggage agent said.  "We'll have it loaded on the next flight from LAX and forwarded to you."  I was relieved until she frowned and said that the next flight had already departed.

Spirit of Texas Skid Lid

It's just luggage, right?  WRONG!  My rolling gear bag held all my riding gear for the Outback crossing, the departure for which was supposed to commence in just two days.  My custom-fit knee braces and my one-of-a-kind Texas flag-wrapped helmet were among the other necessities in that bag.  As tough as it was, I remained calm and polite, spoke softly, and even forced a smile because I knew this woman was the only person who could help me.  My mind continued to spin as I began to mentally explore the possibility of purchasing the minimum amount of gear that I could get by with in country.  With nothing else I could accomplish at the baggage office, I left my Air B&B address and host's contact info with the Qantas agent who advised me to also fill out the Customs paperwork for my bags so they could be claimed in my absence and forwarded to the nearest airport served by Qantas.  I did so and headed to the gate for my connecting flight to Mackay where upon landing, I would pick up a rental car and drive two hours to Airlie Beach in Queensland.  I hated the idea of leaving the fate of this trip in the hands of total strangers who were probably overworked and whose concern for my predicament could likely be measured in micro give-a-shits. I had no choice.

While I sat waiting for my connection, I decided to throw a hail Mary pass and reached out to an Australian in Sydney (Mick) with whom I had corresponded via email in the preceding months about the trip.  I figured he might know where riding gear might be available between Mackay and Airlie Beach.  Mick said there wasn't anything but kangaroos and skinks (no, not skunks) on that route, but then added that his ex-wife worked in IT for Qantas in Sydney and that he would seek her help applying some insider pressure to locating my gear.  I had no phone, so all this was happening by email and instant messaging on my laptop as the minutes till my departure to Mackay seemed to fly by.  Under any other circumstance, time would have seemed to creep.  The last message I received on my laptop was "I'll phone you."  How? I have no phone!  Shit.

Moments later, over the paging system, I heard "Shrug the Texan, please pick up the courtesy paging phone."  I had to hear it twice because it didn't register the first time.  It occurred to me then that Mick never knew my real name.  To him, I was Shrug, the Texan.  Maybe my luck was turning.  "Hey mate. Mick here."  After exchanging pleasantries, giving my real name so his ex could investigate, and my explaining the meaning behind Shrug, Mick explained to me that someone on his wife's staff was working a project at the Brisbane airport and might be able to help with Customs and the local baggage crew.  Not only was this guy able to confirm my bags were loaded for a flight out of LAX, but he would also be able to retrieve them in Brisbane and arrange to have them forwarded via Virgin Air to Proserpine airport, only 30 minutes away from where I was staying in Airlie Beach.  I was expecting to use up all my free decompression time with a little sightseeing before hitting the Outback.  A four-hour round trip to/from Mackay was not on my agenda, but I would do whatever it took.  Mick's news seemed too good to be true.  The tide (and my mood) had turned 180 degrees in only a few hours.  I hung up the phone, walked outside, and boarded my connection to Mackay.  I managed to dodge the kangaroos and skinks (lizards) and navigated the traffic circles (from the left lane, no less) as I made my way to the Air B&B house that would be my accommodation for the next two nights.  The next afternoon, my host told me that he received the call I had been waiting for.  My bags had made it!  After a short drive, I finally had my gear, only twelve hours before my scheduled departure into the Outback.

Due to American Airlines' screwing with my itinerary, I will be forced to retrieve the luggage I checked in Texas at the Doha terminal and re-check it in to Qatar Airlines for my connection to Nepal. Can you say déjà vu? I've baked in plenty of time for my bags to be loaded and I'll have two days in Kathmandu before I ride. So, while I feel confident that I've taken all the steps I can to alleviate the unexpected from this upcoming adventure, I am fully aware that the universe will do to me whatever it wants with/to me.  All I can do is plan, hope for the best, and if necessary, count on the kindness of strangers.

A Texian in Tibet - Reader Humor

OK, so 2025 is the Chinese year of the snake, but this is still funny.

Thanks T.R.!

A Texan in Tibet - Entry Visa Fusterfcluck

"The airline lost my luggage, so I sued them. Unfortunately, I lost the case."
- Anonymous

What a mess! It appears the rules for travel in Tibet have changed. In the recent past, the process was handled by in-country fixers who have political/administrative connections and know how to leverage them. As I wrote in a previous entry, I was supposed to hand my passport over to my fixer and they would magically return with a Tibetan entry permit, My job while the permit was being secured was to wander around Kathmandu, shopping and acclimatizing, and definitely not worrying that I was in a third world country, unescorted, and with no passport in my possession. What could possibly go wrong? Apparently, this was the norm and nobody seemed to experience any drama following the process.

Now, it's different. That the change happened whilst I am preparing for my trip is just my dumb luck. The new rule requires travelers to secure their own Tibetan entry permit, but this permit cannot be obtained unless the traveler first secures a Chinese tourist visa. To secure a Chinese tourist visa, the traveler must list their destination, but if Tibet is listed as a destination, the visa will be refused. It's a classic catch 22.

After numerous phone calls and emails, I think I learned the trick.  There's always a trick. The Chinese visa application requires a destination, but not a flight number. I was advised to list a major Chinese city and a hotel as my destination on the visa application. Apparently, there is no verification and the visa is issued. If, for some reason my itinerary just happens to change, I will still have a valid Chinese visa that can be used for my Tibetan entry permit. I applied online for a Chinese Visa today and I must say, they are thorough. I'm pretty sure China knows more about me than my own family.

Oh, and just in case anybody is keeping track, I am very much looking forward to staying at the Hilton Hotel in Beijing! I'll tackle the Tibetan entry permit next. 

A Texan in Tibet - Trip Preparations Continue

"The future belongs to those who prepare for it today."
- Malcolm X

Baby Steps.

I'm making progress in my trip preparation. I sent off for my International Driving Permit this week. I thought the IDP was just a racket with no real value or teeth, but apparently I thought wrong. I was unaware that the 1949 Geneva Convention on Road Traffic and the 1968 Vienna Convention on Road Traffic even existed. But there they are and both Nepal and Tibet not only recognize them, but require foreigners to carry a permit from an agency compliant with one of them. An IDP is not a license to drive in any country, but it serves to give notice that the holder is licensed to drive somewhere in the world contemporary enough to actually enforce standards. At a mere $20 to the AAA plus the cost of two passport photos and a postage stamp, it's probably a still a racket, but it's a small price to pay to get my hands on the rental bike and to secure my Tibetan Visa with driving privileges.

Speaking of my Tibetan Visa, I filed the application this week also. I felt like I was sending a resume complete with occupation, education, relatives living and deceased, and a list of all countries visited in the last five years. Most of this information is available through my passport, but I'm not arguing the process. The Chinese don't mess around. I'm told this application will be matched up and checked for inconsistencies with my passport in Kathmandu and then again at the Tibetan border. I suppose these requirements are no big deal given that Nepal was closed to all foreigners as recently as forty years ago and China has been tightening its grip on Tibet for decades.

Nepal also requires an entry Visa, but it appears easier to acquire. One option is to print the application and apply for a Visa upon arrival at the airport in Kathmandu. I've read that the process can take anywhere from twenty minutes to five hours. The other option is to send my passport off to the Nepalese Embassy in Washington DC, which will facilitate my sailing past the Visa Upon Arrival queue. This option was recommended by my in country asset since I have three months before I depart. I still have to complete and submit an online version, which the Embassy reviews it for completeness and any potential issues. If the planets are aligned, they email me a form to print and snail mail back to them along with with my passport and a $50 fee. My passport should be back in my hands within two weeks. I chose this option because it leaves less to chance.

Other ongoing preparations include acquiring the miscellaneous equipment and clothing items necessary to survive the environment, and perhaps a few creature comforts. I'm also putting in three miles on the rower and elliptical trainer at least five days a week. When the weather and my schedule permits, I walk three miles with my dogs past the neighbor farms on my county road.

I can definitely feel the positive results from my conditioning, my eating habits, and from my alcohol abstinence. But, I'm frustrated by slower progress and impact than I experienced when I initially trained for this trip in 2020. I'm aware that I'm five years older, but apparently the difference in aging into my 60s is more impactful than I anticipated. Still, I press on.

Baby steps.

A Texan in Tibet - Earthquake!

On January 6th, Tibet experienced an earthquake that measured a 7.1 on the Richter Scale. The death toll so far is over 100 with more injured. The epicenter is said to be near Shigatze, which is my planned stopping point on riding day four of my trip. This area suffered dramatically during the COVID lockdowns and had been getting back on its feet economically speaking over the last year.

I checked in with my in-county contact and was told the tremors were felt in Kathmandu, but no damage was reported. He added that none of his crew were in the field when the earthquake happened and that he did not see any long-reaching effects that could impact my itinerary. Of course I have personal interests in the region's recovery, but I am hoping for the best for the people directly and indirectly impacted by this event.

Updates as they are available.