"All you need is the plan, the road map, and the courage to press on to your destination."
-Earl Nightingale
Trip Day 3 - Riding Day 1 Plan
Syabrubensi, which sits at 2,380 meters/7,800 feet elevation. No big altitude deal there, but I'll be traversing some pretty rough mountain passes above 5,000 meters/16,400 feet to get there. My O2 training mask regimen will apparently pay dividends on day one.
Getting out of Kathmandu in one piece might be the most challenging part of the entire day. Once I get out of civilization, I should be able to let my guard down a bit and enjoy the ride. The map on the left can be interactively viewed following this link. Zooming in on some of the twisties along the path reveals some pretty interesting switchbacks through Langtang National Park.
I would really prefer to ride the most northern route out of Kathmandu through Kakani, but April is a rainy month in Nepal and the remote mountain routes might not be passable. I'm also not sure about fuel availability. So in the interest of keeping to my plans and adhering to my basic survival instincts, I'll probably ignore Robert Frost and take the road more traveled...at least on day one.
Trip Day 4 - Riding Day 2
Syabrubensi to Kerung: 60km - 5,470 Meters Elevation
The plan for this day's leg is a short ride split into two segments. An interactive map can be found here. Once again, zooming in will reveal some pretty interesting switchbacks and mountain passes.
I will leave Syabrubensi and ride north about 25km/15 miles to the
border. I've read that I should expect hours-long immigration and
customs formalities on both sides of the Nepal and Tibet border.
Kerung, Nepal is the last
border town where I will finish the first riding segment, complete the
Nepali emigration formalities, and push my motorcycle across the
Friendship Bridge. It seems to me that a real friend would let
me ride across the damn bridge, but I digress. Once across, I will
(hopefully) meet my official Tibetan guide. Chinese law prohibits me
from leaving "unescorted". After the Friendship Bridge festivities, I
will clear Chinese Customs following what I am told will be a very
thorough inspection of every piece of property I bring.
The second leg of the day from Customs to Kyirong town should be less
than 35km/22 miles after which I will locate my night's lodging and
chill out in what the locals call the "happy village". The free
time will also give me time to coordinate with my guide, do a little
sight seeing, plan my next day, and acclimatize to the 5,470
meter/17,950 feet elevation.
Trip Day 5 - Riding Day 3 Plan
The elevation at Shegar is only 4,330 meters/14,200 feet. I'll bask in comparatively hick air and should sleep well that night.
Kerung to Shegar: 340km - 4,280 Meters Elevation
Satellite views and written reports lead me to believe that this
340km/211mile leg could be among the most scenic of the entire trip. I
am planning to ride from Kyirong to Shegar with numerous high-altitude
mountain
passes, including Kungthang La pass, which rises to 5,236 meters/17,200
feet. This should be the highest pass I traverse. Interactive link here.
The route should take me past Lake
Peigu Tso, which sits at over 15,000 feet elevation (swimming is not on
my agenda) and through the Tibetan town of Old Tingri that reportedly
offers an amazing view of the Himalayas, Everest, and few other
mountains rising above 8,000 meters. There should be lots of photo ops,
which translates in lots of stops, which explains a seven hour riding
day for only 211 miles. I can't blame the terrain, because the Chinese
take really good care of the roads in Tibet.
The elevation at Shegar is only 4,330 meters/14,200 feet. I'll bask in comparatively hick air and should sleep well that night.
Trip Day 6 - Riding Day 4 Plan
Shegar to Shigatse: 240km - 3,950 Meters Elevation
This will be another red tape day that includes motorcycle inspection
for a temporary license plate and a vision test in order to get my
Tibetan temporary motorcycle license. At only 240km/150 miles, this
will be another short day in terms of terrain traversed. The first leg
will be a scenic, albeit flat stretch of 150km/93 miles, followed by
another 90km/56 miles over a small 4,300 meter/14,100 foot mountain pass
into Shigatse. The interactive map is here.
The
second largest city in Tibet, Shigatse is described as a fairly modern
city with a population of over 100,000 and sits at an elevation of 3,845
meters/12,615
feet. Since I can't predict the amount of time I'll spend getting my
license and plates, I'll make this my fourth day's stop and see the
sights. In fact, the delays could be substantial enough that I won't
get my license until the next day. If that proves to be the case, I
will rise and shine and be the first in line at the police station on
day 5.
The main attraction in Shigatse is the Tashilhunpo Monastery, which is said to have been founded in 1447. I suspect I will get my fill of monasteries before this trip is over. Shigatse is a primary gathering place for tourists heading to Everest, so I anticipate having the opportunity to meet and talk with plenty of people.
The main attraction in Shigatse is the Tashilhunpo Monastery, which is said to have been founded in 1447. I suspect I will get my fill of monasteries before this trip is over. Shigatse is a primary gathering place for tourists heading to Everest, so I anticipate having the opportunity to meet and talk with plenty of people.
Trip Day 7 - Riding Day 5 Plan
Shigatse to Gyantse: 90km - 3,900 Meters Elevation
Trip Day 8 - Riding Day 6 Plan
Depending on how my Day 4 plan went, I will either head for Gyantse
first thing in the morning, or I will spend the morning at the local
police station jumping through hoops to get my temporary driving
license. If the latter proves to be the case, I will make the short
90km/56 mile ride to Gyantse after lunch. If that red tape shakedown
was not enough, the short ride will probably seem like eternity because
of the 40km/h (25mph) speed
limit imposed by the traffic police. I'm told there are regular speed
traps and patrol cars to strictly enforce the speed limit and that
simply paying the fine is not an option. I have no plan to find out
that the acceptable option might be. I've waited years to make this
trip. A couple of slow roll hours will not kill me. the interactive
map can be found here.
In contrast to Shigatse, Gyantse is said to be a
pastoral town that remains untouched by modern expansion. This could be
a quaint and cool thing, or it could really suck. Either way, I'll
spend the night at a comfortable 3,900 meters/12,800 feet.
Trip Day 8 - Riding Day 6 Plan
Gyantse to Lhasa: 350km - 3,650 Meters Elevation
Assuming
I will have stuck to my previous days' itineraries, this should be a
day of rest and respite from the bike. After all, Even God took a day off. Some sights I want to visit
include the iconic
Potala Palace, the tourist shopping trap known as Barkhor Street, and
the Dreprung Monastery. I hope to also find some western cuisine! I'll
try to leverage the day off to do some writing.
The
plan is to ride out from Sakya early and ascend the Gyatso la mountain
pass. At 5,248 meters/17,217 feet, this is the highest
pass on this section of my trip and is said to be one of the nine most
treacherous roads on the planet. I think this is due to its altitude
more than the actual surface conditions. From there, I will descend
back down to Shegar where I will have stopped on riding day three and
then ride out towards the main road to the Qomolongma (Everest) National
park.
Check out the interactive map and zoom in on the twisties just south of Tingri.
Depending on traffic and the time of day that I arrive, I will try to
hit the Everest Base Camp on this day. If not, I will ride there on
Riding Day 9 before heading back to Kyirong Town. My night's
accommodation will be at a basic monastery guest house at 4,980
meters/16,340 feet.
Kyirong Town to Kathmandu: 161km
If
all goes to plan, this day will start with a short 24 kilometer down to
the Tibet-Nepal border. Here, I'll repeat (in reverse) the immigration
process of crossing the Friendship Bridge, bid farewell to my Tibetan
escort, and complete the Nepali Customs process. The rest of the day
will be consumed by riding back into civilization and down to Kathmandu
where traffic signals, lanes painted on the roads, and signs are all
mere suggestions that are pretty much ignored by the locals. I will
have negotiated some of earth's highest mountain passes and some
over-the-top crazy terrain, yet riding out of and back into Kathmandu
will probably prove to be most dangerous parts of the trip.
Depending on my arrival time in Kathmandu, I'll return the Himalayan and check into my hotel to decompress and prepare for my return to the States on April 28th.
This should be an interesting route with plenty of remote back roads and
a particularly tricky mountain passage. As such, fuel management and
awareness will be paramount. If my plans hold, I should ride about
350km/217 miles to Nagartse via the primitive, rocky Simi La pass at
4,200 meters/13,780 feet and then over the newly-paved Karo La pass at
5,010 meters/16,400 feet. Temperatures at both passes are said to be
cold, even in the summer. Cold temperatures and thin air should make
for a challenging, yet interesting day of riding. The interactive map
can be seen here.
Lhasa is a cultural center of Tibet and having ridden six days straight, I plan to take the next day off for some rest. A day off the bike in Alaska and Australia was a welcome respite on those trips. It will also afford me the opportunity to sort through my videos and images and maybe do a little writing. I expect decent Internet access, so I hope to update this blog.
Lhasa is a cultural center of Tibet and having ridden six days straight, I plan to take the next day off for some rest. A day off the bike in Alaska and Australia was a welcome respite on those trips. It will also afford me the opportunity to sort through my videos and images and maybe do a little writing. I expect decent Internet access, so I hope to update this blog.
Trip Day 9 - No Riding Planned
Hanging Out in Lhasa
"Sometimes the best solution is to rest, relax and recharge. It's hard to be your best on empty."
- Sam Glenn.
- Sam Glenn.
Trip Day 10 - Riding Day 7 Plan
Lhasa to Sakya: 410km - 4,025 Meters Elevation
Currently, my plan is to backtrack towards Shigatse, but skip the Simi La and Karo La passes and traverse a northern route. This route from Lhasa to Shigatse City is roughly 280km/174 miles, but I plan to bypass the city premises and continue on the outskirts, heading another 110km/68 miles southwest towards Sakya, which sits at 4,025 meters/13,200 feet elevation. The entire day will only be about 255 miles. I'll find my lodging and see how much time I have left to see the local sights. The interactive map can be found here.
Lhasa to Sakya: 410km - 4,025 Meters Elevation
Currently, my plan is to backtrack towards Shigatse, but skip the Simi La and Karo La passes and traverse a northern route. This route from Lhasa to Shigatse City is roughly 280km/174 miles, but I plan to bypass the city premises and continue on the outskirts, heading another 110km/68 miles southwest towards Sakya, which sits at 4,025 meters/13,200 feet elevation. The entire day will only be about 255 miles. I'll find my lodging and see how much time I have left to see the local sights. The interactive map can be found here.
Trip Day 11 - Riding Day 8 Plan
Sakya to Rongbuk: 255km - 5,200 Meters elevation - Everest, Baby!
The
plan is to ride out from Sakya early and ascend the Gyatso la mountain
pass. At 5,248 meters/17,217 feet, this is the highest
pass on this section of my trip and is said to be one of the nine most
treacherous roads on the planet. I think this is due to its altitude
more than the actual surface conditions. From there, I will descend
back down to Shegar where I will have stopped on riding day three and
then ride out towards the main road to the Qomolongma (Everest) National
park.
I will be arriving in the Everest National Park area during the peak
climbing season and as such, I anticipate pretty rough environmental
conditions and really dusty air on the dirt road leading to the Rongbuk
Monastery. The road from the monastery to the town of Rongbuk is said to
be well-maintained blacktop. Traffic will probably be a nightmare, but
at least the road is paved. The whole day's riding should only be
about 255km/158 miles. It's the traffic and repeated switchbacks that
tend to lull riders into a sense of complaisance. This grasshopper will
have to focus.
Check out the interactive map and zoom in on the twisties just south of Tingri.
 |
| Rongbuk & Everest |
Trip Day 12 - Ride Day 9 Plan
Everest Base Camp - Kyirong: 286km - 5,200 Meters Elevation
This day is kind of up for grabs and really depends on how Riding Day 8
goes. If I didn't hit the Everest Base Camp on Day 8, I will do so on
day 9. If this is the case, it could make for a very long riding day
heading down from the Rongbuk Monastery to Everest Base Camp with all
its traffic and then backtracking up again. From Base camp, I'll ride
back through Rongbuk, through Tingri across what is described as the
highest plateau in the world (4,384 meters/14,380 feet), and then
northwest to Kyirong Town at a mere 2,700 meters/8,900 feet elevation.
The interactive map can be viewed here. Unless something unplanned happens, the night spent in Kyirong will be my last in Tibet.
Trip Day 13 - Ride Day 10 Plan
That's why I'm going to Kathmandu
Up to the mountain's where I'm going to
And if I ever get out of here
That's what I'm gonna do
Up to the mountain's where I'm going to
And if I ever get out of here
That's what I'm gonna do
K-K-K-K-K-K Kathmandu
Really, really where I'm going to
If I ever get out of here
I'm going to Kathmandu - Bob Seger
Really, really where I'm going to
If I ever get out of here
I'm going to Kathmandu - Bob Seger
If
all goes to plan, this day will start with a short 24 kilometer down to
the Tibet-Nepal border. Here, I'll repeat (in reverse) the immigration
process of crossing the Friendship Bridge, bid farewell to my Tibetan
escort, and complete the Nepali Customs process. The rest of the day
will be consumed by riding back into civilization and down to Kathmandu
where traffic signals, lanes painted on the roads, and signs are all
mere suggestions that are pretty much ignored by the locals. I will
have negotiated some of earth's highest mountain passes and some
over-the-top crazy terrain, yet riding out of and back into Kathmandu
will probably prove to be most dangerous parts of the trip.Depending on my arrival time in Kathmandu, I'll return the Himalayan and check into my hotel to decompress and prepare for my return to the States on April 28th.
Trip Day 14 - Mission Accomplished?
"It always seems impossible until it's Done."
- Nelson Mandela
