Friday, March 28, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - More and Moore Media

 
"Obsolescence is a factor which says that the new thing I bring you is worth more than the unused value of the old thing."
- Charles Kettering

I tried to convince myself that I didn't need to take a GoPro on this trip. I need to ride as lean and unburdened (but not by what has been) with equipment as possible. But one camera isn't much to carry, is it? The truth is GoPro cams are like Lay's Potato Chips and anyone who has a GoPro knows they can never just grab a camera and go. First, I have to decide which camera to grab. I bought a Hero3+ model cheap on eBay way back when the Hero4 came out in 2014 and people were dumping the "old" stuff. Then, I bought a Hero4 cheap from the same eBay seller a year later when the Hero5 came out. I'm not sure which one of us was the sucker in those deals, but GoPro is probably the real hero for getting people to ditch the old for the new. Apple anyone?
 
The only brand new current model (at the time) GoPro I ever acquired was the GoPro Hero4 Session, which is a tiny 1" cube form factor. I actually won that one in a writing/photo contest and although I never used it, I still have it. I picked up a year-old GoPro Max a few years ago and despite Moore's Law, it's still considered modern. The Max leverages two fisheye lenses on the camera body front and back to capture images and videos in a full 360° spherical format that allows the viewer to to zoom in/out on an image or play the video while scrolling with a mouse to see up/down and left/right fully around the camera's recording position. It's pretty amazing to me, and hopefully the videos and images I collect will do it justice. I uploaded a short trip around my front four acres that can be viewed here. If it doesn't play in 4k, click the YouTube settings wheel and adjust the playback quality to 2160/4k.


 
Now, GoPro is up to the Hero13, but I've decided to keep my old cameras and just take the Max on this trip. I've updated to the latest firmware and I really can't (or won't) justify the expense of buying new when I use them so infrequently. Now that I think about it, the cube is so small, it would be easy to take along also. Hello Lays! I have a helmet chin mount where it will fit nicely and capture my riding point of view.
 
Hero4 Session "the Cube"
 
 
 
 
With the camera debate settled, the epic footage I plan to collect will have to be transferred off the memory card and stored someplace, so it's a good thing SD memory prices have fallen through the floor. After cameras and storage, there's batteries, chargers, adapter cables, and mounting hardware to consider. It almost makes me long for the old days with a Kodak 110 Instamatic.
 
I'm told the Chinese can be unpredictable when it comes to censorship and imagery. Indeed, I can't even bring a map of Tibet that isn't labeled specifically China or  Tibet Autonomous Region. I'm told they have been known to go through riders' phones and cameras at the border inbound and outbound. Sounds cumbersome to me, but just in case, I will do my best to have all my imagery and footage uploaded to the cloud in case I'm instructed to delete it.

Saturday, March 22, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Test Video Render

"Don't settle for blurry, aim for clarity."
- Anonymous

I'm taking a GoPro MAX 360 camera with me with which I hope to capture some cool footage. The sample video below was shot in 360° mode. Use your mouse to dial in the view you want. While holding the left mouse button down, move the mouse left/right and up/down while the video plays. The video quality might be sketchy as I work out the bugs. It's shot and rendered in 4k, but the blogger host might throttle the transfers. If it doesn't play in 4k, click the YouTube settings wheel and adjust the playback quality.



 

I won't be shooting too much 360 on the trip because they are massive files and uploading from Nepal and Tibet could be a challenge.

 
Picture may be blurry, but the fun is clear.

 

Friday, March 21, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Electronics & Power

''Any sufficiently advanced technology, is indistinguishable from magic.''
Arthur C. Clarke
 
Travelers from decades ago would probably laugh at travelers today and our dependence on our electronic devices. The truth is, I can't go anywhere without my phone and like most people, I rarely use it to actually talk. For better or worse, ours is a connected world and until the metal braincap is available (in the year 2025, according to Arthur C. Clarke), humans will continue to carry a handful of devices. On this trip, I will carry my phone, my GPS watch, my two-way GPS communicator, a GoPro camera, Bluetooth headphones, a Surface tablet running Windows, and adequate external storage to offload my videos and images as I travel. Of course, all of these devices except for the memory need to be charged.

A Plug for Every Country!
International travel adds its own degree of complexity; not so much due to voltage differences these days as most devices are rated for both 120v and 220v, but primarily because of the differing AC power outlet standards and form factors. USB charging ports have become commonplace in public spaces in the US, but not so much overseas and I have no idea about the third world countries I'll be visiting. Even in the US, charging current from most public USB ports is so minimal that many devices barely charge at all. I have to take what's available for me and focus on AC outlets. I did a little research on the outlets in Paris, Qatar, Sri Lanka, Nepal, and Tibet and have determined that I will need up to six different AC plug adapters in order to keep my electronics charged. My compact multi-port USB/AC adapter operates on 50/60Hz 110-240V, so all I have to do is connect the right AC adapter, plug it into the local AC power, and I can simultaneously charge my own devices and still have ports to
USB Battery Tender

share with other travelers when outlets are scarce. I'm preparing for the fact that electricity may not be available in my quarters at some of my sleep stops and I will bring along a high capacity Anker battery bank that should hold me over for those nights. Of course, this only works if I can keep the bank itself charged. The Royal Enfield Himalayan motorcycle I'll be riding does not have a USB charger, but the guy I'm renting from assured me that I can install one on the bike before I head out. I'll leave it there for the next rider. I'm hoping this ability to charge on-the-go will keep the music and audio books playing in my helmet throughout the long riding days...and maybe sleepless nights.

Some have asked, but no; I won't be bringing a drone on this trip, despite them being legal to fly. Interestingly, Tibet's drone regulations are more permissive than Nepal's. I would love to capture some epic aerial footage, but the curmudgeon in me just doesn't want to deal with dragging all the batteries in my carry-on bags, transporting all the drone gear daily, and keeping everything charged for spur-of-the-moment flights. Processing and transferring my daily captured footage, and then doing all the editing after the trip for content that virtually nobody will see isn't exactly inspiring either.

Tuesday, March 18, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Baggage

"Did you ever notice that the first piece of luggage on the carousel never belongs to anyone?"
- Erma Bombeck

It'll All Fit, Really!

One of the biggest challenges I'm facing in this trip planning is baggage space and weight. I'm struggling to cram all my riding gear, ancillary equipment, and my personal items and clothes into my travel moto bag, and to keep it at or below fifty pounds to avoid airline overweight fees. I have to pack my batteries in my carry-on bag, which drops a few precious ounces from my checked bag, but I'll still have to get creative. With three weeks out, I have time to practice pack with a scale and zero in on a final packing solution.

Whatever I finally come up with, I need to be prepared to have to retrieve and re-check my bags at each leg of my trip. I'm flying American Airlines to Paris, but connecting on Sri Lankan Air to Colombo, and then again to Kathmandu. It's all one travel record, but on multiple airlines. If American can check my bags all the way through, life would be much easier. My AA frequent flier status allows me two free checked bags. If I have to leave the secure area in Paris to retrieve and carry my bags to Sri Lankan Airlines to check them to Kathmandu, then I may be limited to one free checked bag, meaning I'll have to pony up for the second. Nobody can give me a consistent answer and unexpected expenses suck! I realize that in the big picture, a baggage fee for a trip I've dreamed of taking for years is not a big deal. Sometimes my frugal mindset just can't let it go. My return route is from Kathmandu to Dallas through Doha, and is all on Qatar Air metal, so I anticipate not having to see my checked baggage until I land in Dallas. I  just hope I don't face the same outbound lost baggage debacle I did on my Australia trip. I also hope Qatar Air doesn't lose my baggage on the return trip. British Airways lost my bags on my trip back from Amsterdam and I didn't get them back until 14 days after my return.

Retro Moto Fashion for a Retro Moto Rider
 
I corresponded with one guy who claims he completed his entire motorcycle tour with just a single carry-on shoulder bag. He said he purchased all of his riding and cold weather gear from bazaars and suppliers in Kathmandu for about $600USD, and then donated what he didn't want to keep to a moto tour outfit when he left. The OCD traveler in me just cannot leave that much to chance. Besides, I'm on a budget and I already have all the gear. I admit that much of it is dated and worn, but the bottom line is that it only needs to last me for two weeks. Who knows? Maybe I'll leave some gear behind too.
Whitsunday Airport
Queensland Australia
 
Speaking of dated gear, I purchased my Hebo riding jacket way back in 2001 when I was a competitive enduro racer. Back then, Hebo was top notch riding gear from Spain and it was built to last. And it has. You know how some things circle around and come back into fashion over time? Well, this jacket didn't, but it's still serviceable and it still fits with room to spare for insulated under layers! I can either pat myself on the back for still being able to wear apparel that fit me almost 25 years ago or, I could slap myself on the face for being just as fat now as I was then.

Friday, March 14, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Fill 'er Up, Please!

"I'm stranded all alone in the gas station of love, and I have to use the self service pump."
- Weird Al Yankovic

When I rode to Maine in 2014, I made it my mission to ride through all the small states along the eastern seaboard as part of my attempt to knock out the remainder of US states to which I had yet to ride my Harley. When I got to New Jersey, I learned that drivers weren't allowed to pump their own gas at fuel stations. Being on a bike, I was allowed to hold the fuel nozzle, but the buttons had to be pushed and the pump started by a qualified professional...probably some union guy. I'm told this was also true in Oregon until 2023. Either way, I've never seen that before or since. Where else in the world would I find such backward fuel station policies? Welcome to China!

Gomer & Goober Pyle - "Check your oil, sir?"
Tibet has apparently one-upped new Jersey. In Tibet, automobile drivers can't pump their own fuel, but at least they can drive up to the pumps, where an attendant completes the task. Motorcycles can't even drive up to the pumps in Tibet. I'll have to park at the outer edge of the parking lot in a safe zone, where an attendant will check my papers against our official guide's list, record my rental bike license plate and odometer reading, compare them to the data collected at my previous fuel purchase, verify that I am allowed to purchase fuel, and then tell me what the rate per liter will be. I smell a shakedown.
"Safety Zone" Fuel Dump

 

 

But wait because it gets even better. After the purchase qualification formalities are completed and the Chinese crawl back out of my ass with their microscope, I will have to be escorted on foot over to the pump where the attendant will fill a fuel can for me to carry back to the safety zone to manually pour into my fuel tank, and then pay God-only-knows how much for the privilege. My Royal Enfield Himalayan motorcycle is said to hold 3.96 gallons. I just hope they let me carry enough to fill my tank in one trip!


Tuesday, March 11, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - One Month Out

"It’s a terrible thing to look forward to something that may never happen." 
- Betty Smith, A Tree Grows in Brooklyn
 
 

With only a month until my departure, I find myself juggling anxiousness and excitement. I use the term anxiousness instead of anxiety because I don't believe what I'm feeling is an unhealthy emotion. I'll explain.

When I originally planned this trip back in 2019, I spent a year conditioning, acquiring gear, and researching everything from immigration policies and pitfalls to local customs and the logistics associated with just getting around in Nepal and Tibet. I was beginning to enjoy a sense of preparedness and confidence until around December/January of 2020 when the COVID plandemic reared its ugly head. I held out hope that the world would come to its senses, but things just got uglier as authoritarian regimes grabbed footholds in their respective countries and their citizens obediently fell in line like cattle heading for slaughter. The trip was officially canceled by February.

Five years have passed.

While I was aware that Nepal and Tibet had reopened their borders in 2023, I was too busy building a homestead and hyper-focused on aligning my finances towards retirement to seriously consider another attempt. Still, I started quietly planning the trip again in the fall of 2024, all the while remaining silent and tempering my emotions; choosing instead to focus on the logistics. The airlines threw several curve balls at me, my job presented its challenges, and my son's wedding fell just four days before the optimal departure date. Now only a month out, the foreseeable hurdles have been cleared and I'm actually allowing myself to get excited.

If excitement is one side of a two-edged sword, then the other side is the fear that the trip experience won't measure up to the hype in my head. My Alaska trip in 2011 absolutely measured up. Months of planning and physical conditioning culminated in my returning home with a triumphant sense of personal accomplishment. I also had a clearer head after weeks of solitude and the introspection that accompanied it. Not so much for my 2016 Australian Outback crossing, during which I sustained mind-numbingly painful injuries only three days into an 18-day ride. I had no choice but to gut it out and ride the 3,000 miles to Fremantle. I do enjoy that piece of accomplishment, but the abject pain I suffered over those 15 days caused me so much despair that when I returned home, I deleted all my notes, photos, and videos from the trip and just put it out of my mind.

 
So, therein lies the delicate balance of excitement for finally getting to live the experience and the anxiousness of some unforeseen and unsolvable event raising its ugly head. Paranoid much? I'm typically a composed and confident guy, but the excitement I've allowed myself to feel leaves room for emotion laced with just a sliver of paranoia. I'm not losing sleep over it, mind you. It's just present way in the back of my mind and probably will be until I see my name on the placard that my driver is holding in the Kathmandu airport.

Friday, March 7, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Food

"I am not a picky eater. I just prefer pleasing my taste buds first."
-Yuno Mi
 
I'm not what most would call a picky eater, although I certainly have my preferences. For example, I avoid all organ meat and generally don't like fish, and I'll eat most any vegetable except mushrooms.  As a meat n' taters kinda guy, my palate is best described as unsophisticated.

By the time I depart, I will have spent January through early April eating a mostly low-carb/Mediterranean-ish diet and I will have avoided alcohol and processed sugars. I sure do miss bread!  Judith Viorst once wrote "Strength is the capacity to break a chocolate bar into four pieces with your bare hands - and then eat just one of the pieces." I would like to be able to proclaim a new lifelong lease on healthy eating, but the truth is my recent dietary discipline has merely been a part of my resolute conditioning for this trip. I've been fat and then dropped weight as a means to achieving a goal more times than Hillary has had opposition witnesses suicided.

During the trip, I'll gladly suspend any dietary resolve and just eat what's available, albeit still avoiding organ meat where possible. After all, it's not like I'll have a choice. One thing is for sure; I'll bring a fork! I never understood why anyone would eat food with sticks when forks exist. I do kinda like getting to slurp soup directly from the bowl because there's no spoon. But I digress.

I've read up on Nepalese and Tibetan cuisine and learned that the locals' diets are primarily comprised of lentils, rice, and breads, and they tend to be influenced not just on ethnicity, but on locale. This makes sense given that Nepal and Tibet don't exactly have the culinary distribution infrastructure that we enjoy in the States. Nevertheless, it appears to me to be a bit of a mix of Asian and Indian cuisines, both of which I generally like...as long as they're cooked.
 
Yak seems to be on the menu everywhere. I love beef and have eaten venison, horse, lion, ostrich, rattlesnake, alligator, kangaroo, camel, and something furry and ugly that was killed and grilled by an Aboriginal chief in the Outback. But I've never eaten yak, which looks to me like a cow with a Rastafarian hairdo. Apparently, yak is as versatile to the Tibetans as shrimp was to Benjamin Buford Blue.  Did I mention that I generally don't like shrimp?
 
I read that food can be difficult to grow in Tibet because of the altitude. It makes sense, but it never occurred to me before. Villages in upper elevations must rely on imports from lower lying regions for veggies and grains, but even their meats can be scarce because the grains needed for livestock grazing don't grow in the thin air. It occurred to me that we in the western world; especially Texas really don't realize just how good we have it.
Home of the Big Yak?
 
I'm a diehard carnivore (gasp) who loves meat, but I love my meat unspoiled. I admit that I harbor some concerns about refrigeration and perishable freshness over there. I prefer my yak-burger fresh, but for this trip will settle for anything this side of rancid. I've read that the locals have inherited and/or developed a robust intestinal constitution over time and as such, are able to tolerate meat that would have me and most westerners throwing up our toenails. I can't ride for hours on end battling the high altitudes while simultaneously clamping my sphincter shut and trying not to barf in my helmet. With that pleasant thought in mind, I suspect that unless I'm in a fairly modern restaurant, I'll stick to rice, veggies, eggs, and bread. Maybe even a yak-burger.


Yakity Yak. Don't Talk Back.

Friday, February 28, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Travel Documents & Government Red Tape

“The value of your travels does not hinge on how many stamps you have in your passport when you get home.”
- Rolf Potts


I'm no stranger to trips abroad and with over two million commercial air miles, I consider myself a well-seasoned traveler. While travel generally sucks, all those miles facilitated my booking these international flights with award miles at almost no cost. Successful travel starts with thorough planning and though I'm known as a shoot-from-the-hip guy in most situations, I leave nothing to chance when it comes to travel; especially international travel. These days, all international travel requires passports and visas. I remember being able to pass to and from Canada and Mexico with just my Texas driver's license, but those days are long gone...at least legally. Fortunately, visas are easier to acquire these days, with most countries offering on-line pre-approval or instant approval at customs in the destination country.

Some countries offer instant visas upon arrival at their airports, and Nepal is one of them. I can secure my visa on the spot upon arrival in the Nepalese Customs area at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. $50USD will get me a 30-day tourist visa with expedited outbound processing when I re-enter Nepal from Tibet, and again when I depart Nepal for my connection in Qatar on my return trip home. I could also acquire a six-month visa before I depart for the same price, but for some reason having the 30-day visa issued at the airport expedites my entry back into Nepal from Tibet. I can't imagine why that is, but that's the recommended option and the one that I'm taking.

Once in Nepal and checked-in to my hotel, I'll have a few days to acclimatize and adjust to the 10-hour and 45-minutes forward time change. I'll also have to hand my passport over to my local fixer so he can secure my visa through the Chinese Embassy for passage into Tibet. I'm told this can take a day or two and honestly, I'm not entirely comfortable handing over my passport to a stranger in a foreign country. I've had discussions with a few people who have visited Tibet from Nepal as recently as December 2024, and every indication is that if you want a Chinese visa into the Autonomous Region of Tibet without delay and with no surprises at the border, this is how it's done. These "fixers" are lifetime locals who know the ropes, the pitfalls, and who's palms to grease (with my money, of course). More importantly, they have a reputation among experienced travelers to the area, so knowing who to trust was somewhat easier for me. The alternative is to ride to the border with all the assumed proper and completed paperwork, and then petition the Embassy outpost there for a visa. I've read accounts of tourists being stranded there awaiting red tape resolutions that could take days due to the remote location and local staff working under a repressive regime and who have little to no authority to make decisions. My entry permit aside, I'm told also to expect the Chinese to visually check every piece of luggage; unpacking each item for inspection. For this reason, no maps or other printed information about Tibet can be brought into the country as it is considered foreign propaganda. Photos and videos in the border area are prohibited. Motorcycles must be pushed across the borderline, ironically known as the Friendship Bridge. Maybe that's because unlike Nepal, traffic flows on the right side of the road in Tibet. I wonder if they have to push cars across too? I suppose I'll find out in soon.

Tibet voluntarily isolated itself during the wars and was not part of the League of Nations. This might explain why the rest of the world was quiet when the Chinese discreetly occupied the Tibetan territory and labeled it as the Xizang Province of China. Occupying Tibet gave China access to rich natural resources and allowed it to militarize the strategically important border with India. As such and despite being labeled "The Tibet Autonomous Region",  Tibet is essentially a Chinese militarized zone wherein strict rules  of governance appear to be arbitrarily enforced. One such strange rule is that no foreign national can travel alone on Tibetan roads. A government approved escort is required to be within eyesight of a tourist or group of tourists, and there are checkpoints scattered throughout the country to enforce this rule. The escort must carry a list of his clients and those clients must carry the name and contact information of their escort. For this reason, I will likely find myself riding among a group of strangers that could increase and decrease in size each day. I'm good with that, but if I plan to stick with my escort (and stay out of jail), my itinerary may necessarily be fluid. This is where I'll have to leave some aspects of my itinerary to chance, which is about as comforting to me as popping a zit. Honestly, traveling with other riders isn't an issue for me, and strangers don't remain strangers in my orbit for very long. They may walk away thinking me a strange Texan, but we will be familiar. I view it as doing my part to promote international relations from the soon-to-be Nation of Texas.

I'm told that despite having my Tibetan visa in hand, I should still expect a lengthy delay while crossing the border, and that this delay includes getting my rental motorcycle inspected by the local police force for safety and compliance. These same bikes pass through this border many times each year and are probably instantly recognized by the inspectors. Smells like a shakedown to me, but I'll play the game. It's not like I have a choice. I'll also have to apply for a temporary Tibetan motorcycle driver's license at the border and to do that, I have to attend a short training course and pass an exam. I must also present an International Driver's Permit that is recognized by the 1949 Convention on International Road Traffic, and issued from the country of residence listed in my passport. An IDP is only valid for one year, so of course the one I secured back in 2020 has expired. An application through my local AAA office by snail mail was only $20, and I received the new IDP a week later. Another box checked.
 
This all seems like a lot of red tape (no pun intended), but If my career travel experience has taught me nothing else, it's to be patient and to find a way to embrace the suck. I've waited almost seven years to take this trip, so a few hours delay into an exotic country that was totally off limits to foreigners as recently as forty years ago should be a walk in the park.

So I say bring it on; travel delays, inconsiderate rookie passengers, inconsiderate seasoned travelers, hours of flying, hours waiting on connections, and customs red tape. An amazing trek on a motorcycle and a photo of Mount Everest in the background will be worth it all.

Friday, February 21, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Yet ANOTHER Itinerary Change

"Be stubborn about the vision, but flexible with your plan."
John C. Maxwell

I know what you're thinking. He's really never going anywhere. Believe me, I've laid awake many a night thinking the same thing. But this time the change was at my direction and has multiple benefits. I'll explain.

 

The last itinerary iteration seemingly was a result of the airlines conspiring to keep me from taking this trip. I'm convinced there was some curmudgeon with a chip on his shoulder, a red stapler, and a transistor radio holed-up in a dimly-lit basement poking around at travel itineraries for poor slobs like myself and just deciding to fuck with the traveler. OK, maybe not convinced, but it did cross my mind. I'm not privy the systems that connect multiple airlines' schedules and infrastructure, but I'll go out on a ledge and guess that they're infinitely complex and intertwined. I'm actually surprised it works at all.

Since American Airlines and Qatar Airways couldn't seem to put together a reasonable itinerary for me, I decided use AA miles to fly to round trip Doha and to bite the bullet and book my Doha to Kathmandu round trip legs separately...and pay out of pocket for the privilege. This was the only way I could get into Kathmandu and have sufficient time to process my visa to Tibet. Last night, while fighting the useless trivial thoughts that keep me awake in bed, it occurred to me that projects at my job are dreadfully slow and that I might actually have more travel flexibility than I did when I revisited this trip last year. So at 3:00am, I decided to go online and expand my departure date options, whereupon found an itinerary I could live with if I was able to depart Texas on April 8th instead of the 11th. Even better was that the entire trip was available on AA miles with no out of pocket airfares. Even better than that was the fact that this improved itinerary cost me 40,000 fewer award miles than the previous one. It really makes no sense, but I'll take it. In fact, I took it.

So now my itinerary looks like this:

32 Grueling Hours in the Seat

Seems like a long way to go until you consider the route traverses to top of the earth.  

On the bright side, I've never been to Paris or Sri Lanka. On the less than bright side, I don't have time to get out and explore either stop, even if I had visas. As grueling as this itinerary seems, it will land me in Kathmandu with almost four full days to acclimatize and get over jet lag from jumping forward 11:45 hours.

 
At 26 hours, the return trip is no cake walk, but it lands me back in Texas in time to be home for lunch.


This route flies over the future 51st & 52nd states of Canada & Greenland!


 

Thursday, February 20, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - AI and Travel

“By far, the greatest danger of Artificial Intelligence is that people conclude too early that they understand it.”
- Eliezer Yudkowsky

This is interesting. I asked Google's Gemini, X's Grock and ChatGPT AI platforms to generate an image of my flight plan from Texas to Kathmandu. The airport code route is DFW - CDG - CMB - KTM (Dallas Fort Worth to Paris France, to Colombia Sri Lanka, to Kathmandu Nepal. None of the AI platforms got it right, but the results are entertaining.

ChatGPT's First Attempt

ChatGPT's Second Attempt

Google Gemini's First Attempt

Google Gemini's Second Attempt

Grock's First Attempt

Grock's Second Attempt

 

The Actual Route - Generated With Old Fashioned Genuine Intelligence

Friday, February 7, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - More American Airlines Saga - The Fustercluck Continues

"Airplane travel is nature’s way of making you look like your passport photo."
- Al Gore

Just when I thought it was all sorted out. American Airlines screwed me again. I wasn't even surprised this time. When I was finally able to reach a real person on the phone, their excuse was that the seats I booked were no longer available, which was why they seemingly arbitrarily booked me on flights completely incompatible with my itinerary...both outbound and return. The agent offered no reason and showed even less interest. It seemed to take all I had just to keep her on the line. This might be difficult for some to believe, but I am extremely polite and pleasant without being condescending when I am dealing with customer service people. It's is not lost on me that they they probably hate their job as much as I hate having to deal with them. Also not in the lost-and-found bin is the knowledge that they could probably delete my entire trip with a single keystroke.

When I asked where the seats I had booked went...crickets. When I asked why at that instant I could see the exact same seats on the exact same flights available to book on miles or for cash...crickets. I politely ended the call and re-booked my exact same itinerary. I have a pile of points, that allowed me to book the additional flight and then delete the other, although I had to jump through some hoops. The next day, I received an email that my original miles had been refunded into my account and that the taxes I paid were credited to my card. I logged in to verify and the miles were indeed replenished, and then saw the dreaded urgent message notice. Funny how it's urgent enough to flash a tint, easily-missed icon on the screen, but not urgent enough to proactively reach out to me. But I digress. The message stated that the flight I booked the day before had been changed yet again, and with arrival times into Doha that not only prevented me from meeting my in-country fixer with sufficient time to process my Tibet entry permit, but also arrived too late for me to make the connection to Kathmandu that THEY booked for me. At this point, I should have reached out to Elon Musk because American Airlines just discovered a way to launch a human into low earth orbit with no carbon footprint.

[editor's note]
I'm getting myself so flustered that I'm talking to my screen and typing with such velocity that I'm about to punch holes through my keyboard.

With seemingly no recourse and definitely no concern from American Airlines, I decided to start over and yet again, deleted my itinerary and refunded my miles. It was clear to me that the only way I was going to make this happen was to get creative. I used miles to book a round trip ticket from DFW to Doha with an arrival a full day earlier. Then I booked and paid out of pocket for a round trip ticket from Doha to Kathmandu on Qatar Airlines. Knowing that the dildo of passenger mistreatment from American Airlines rarely arrives lubed, I baked in plenty of time on both ends to accommodate any further screwing they might subject me to.

The good news is I will have a minimum of two days in Kathmandu to decompress, acclimatize, adjust to the 10+ hour ahead time zone, and see some sights. It also gives my fixer extra time to secure my Tibet entry permit. The bad news is that I will have to retrieve my bags at each stop and carry them from each airlines' bag claim area to the others' bag check-in. Again, I baked in plenty of time for this and my frequent flyer status at American Airlines is recognized by Qatar Air.

I know that in the long run, all of this will have been worth the hassle, drama, and frustration. I have dreamed of embarking on this adventure for six years. No sense on giving up on it now.

[second editor's note]
While we can all relate to the AI-generated image
at the top this article that resembles Donald J Trump Jr. and Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (thanks ChatGPT), I never take out my travel frustration on gate or ticket agents. If they had the power to control the universe and prevent the passenger angst that weather, maintenance, and their employer's ineptitude cause, they certainly wouldn't be there talking to me. More importantly, I am fully aware that the success or failure of my travel is at their fingertips. They probably deserve far more pay than they make and I couldn't do their job for anything!

Wednesday, February 5, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - I Am Not Afraid

I AM NOT AFRAID

“If your dreams don’t scare you, they’re not big enough.”
- Ellen Johnson Sirleaf

1983 - You'll shoot your eye out.
1999 - Y2k is going to kill us all.
2001 - Anthrax is going to kill us all.
2002 - West Nile Virus is going to kill us all.
2003 - SARS is going to kill us all
2005 - Bird Flu is going to kill us all.
2006 - E-Coli is going to kill us all.
2008 - The bad economy is going to kill us all.
2009 - Swine Flu is going to kill us all.
2010 - BP Oil is going to kill us all.
2011 - Riding to the Arctic Circle will kill Shrug.
2012 - The Mayan calendar is going to kill us all.
2013 -  North Korea is going to kill us all.
2014 - Ebola Virus is going to kill us all.
2015 - Disney Measles and ISIS are going to kill us all.
2016 - Riding across the Outback will kill Shrug. (this one was almost accurate)
2017 - Zika Virus is going to kill us all.
2018 - Climate change is going to kill us all.
2019 - Crimean-Congo hemorrhagic fever is going to kill us all.
2020 - COVID 19 Virus is going to kill us all.
2021 - MAGA extremists will destroy America.
2022 - Monkey pox is going to kill us all.
2023 - Antimicrobial Resistance will kill us all.
2024 - Trump will hasten the end of democracy.
2025 - Shrug will never make it to Mount Everest Base Camp.

Friday, January 31, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Hoping History Doesn't Repeat Itself

"The scientific theory I like best is that the rings of Saturn are composed entirely of lost airline luggage." 
- Mark Russell

When I flew to Australia in 2016, I redeemed AAdvantage miles on Qantas, which is an American Airlines code share partner.  When you cash in miles for international travel, it's common to get stuck with crappy flights with long connections.  Instead of a direct flight out of DFW, I had to connect through LAX, but I saw it as a small price to pay for round trip first class seats.  The connection included hours of layover time, which I used to ensure my luggage made it into the Qantas baggage system.  I'll explain.

The Delta Baggage Solution
Just prior to that Oz trip, I spent 18 months developing and deploying a first-of-its-kind global baggage tracking solution for Delta Air Lines.  Anyone who flies frequently has experienced lost checked bags; as if flying in a post-911 world isn't stressful enough.  During that Delta engagement, I was exposed to all levels of the airline baggage handling beast and I found it fascinating.  The system is so convoluted and complex that the fact that our bags actually make it anywhere truly amazes me.  I was well aware that Qantas did not have a sophisticated baggage tracking system like Delta's and armed with my newfound knowledge of the risks for baggage loss, I was inspired to take matters into my own hands in an attempt to mitigate the risk of my bags getting lost during the transfer from a domestic American Airlines flight over to the international terminal and into the Qantas baggage system.  At DFW, I checked my bags to LAX, retrieved them there, carried them to the Qantas ticket counter in the international terminal, personally checked them in there, and then patted myself on the back.  The baggage transfer loss risk was mitigated to the greatest possible extent to which I could contribute.

My Ride to Brisbane
Fast forward a few hours and I'm in the boarding line for my flight.  When the gate agent scanned my boarding pass, I got the buzz-of-death alert and a flashing red light on the podium.  Yeah, I was that guy in the line at whom other passengers impatiently rolled their eyes and sighed aloud.  I had to step out of the line, go the gate counter, and try to have whatever it was resolved.  The gate agent had a confused, but not overly concerned expression as he furiously typed away at the keyboard.  I admit I felt a bit helpless and somewhat angry, yet all I could do was stand there and try not to piss off the one guy who stood between me and my dream trip to Australia. A few minutes later, I was back in the boarding lane, but my seat assignment had changed.  I was too relieved to complain or even comment and as luck would have it, when I boarded, I discovered that I was one of only two passengers in the entire first class cabin.  So why the seat change?  My ADD mind quickly diverted attention from the seat assignment and focused on all the buttons, storage compartments, and amenities that my micro apartment-sized first class seat had to offer.  I was on my way, drink in hand, and kicked back to enjoy my flight with the confidence that I had taken the proper the steps to ensure nothing could go wrong.
I landed in Brisbane 14 hours later, having gotten just enough sleep while flying to awaken on Australian morning time, thus avoiding having to deal with jet lag.  Another part of the plan successfully executed.  I cleared customs, headed to the baggage claim carousel, and waited.

And waited.

Eventually, having stood alone at the carousel for almost an hour after the rest of my flight's passengers had dispersed, I found myself being surrounded by hundreds of Asians whose flight from Japan had recently landed and were waiting for their baggage to arrive.  18 hours prior, I was patting myself on the back.  Now I was kicking myself in the butt.  I wandered over to the Qantas baggage office and once again, got in a line.  Once I was able to talk with an agent, I learned that my bags were never loaded onto the plane at LAX.  The agent explained that this is not uncommon when bags have to be transferred from one airline to another.  I calmly and politely replied that I retrieved my bags from American Airlines at LAX and then personally checked them in at the Qantas counter.  She then said that the other time this sometimes happens is when bags are checked-in too close to an international flight's departure.  I pointed to the hours-before-departure check-in time printed on the baggage receipts and (once again) calmly shook my head.  After feverishly clicking the keys on her terminal, she finally told me that the real reason this happened was because my reservation had somehow been canceled between the time I checked my bags and attempted to board hours later.  My mind was spinning.  This explained the gate agent's confusion back at LAX.  How he was able to resolve the issue and get me onboard an international flight in first class still escapes me. "No problem", the Qantas baggage agent said.  "We'll have it loaded on the next flight from LAX and forwarded to you."  I was relieved until she frowned and said that the next flight had already departed.

Spirit of Texas Skid Lid
It's just luggage, right?  WRONG!  My rolling gear bag held all my riding gear for the Outback crossing, the departure for which was supposed to commence in just two days.  My custom-fit knee braces and my one-of-a-kind Texas flag-wrapped helmet were among the other necessities in that bag.  As tough as it was, I remained calm and polite, spoke softly, and even forced a smile because I knew this woman was the only person who could help me.  My mind continued to spin as I began to mentally explore the possibility of purchasing the minimum amount of gear that I could get by with in country.  With nothing else I could accomplish at the baggage office, I left my Air B&B address and host's contact info with the Qantas agent who advised me to also fill out the Customs paperwork for my bags so they could be claimed in my absence and forwarded to the nearest airport served by Qantas.  I did so and headed to the gate for my connecting flight to Mackay where upon landing, I would pick up a rental car and drive two hours to Airlie Beach in Queensland.  I hated the idea of leaving the fate of this trip in the hands of total strangers who were probably overworked and whose concern for my predicament could likely be measured in micro give-a-shits. I had no choice.

While I sat waiting for my connection, I decided to throw a hail Mary pass and reached out to an Australian in Sydney (Mick) with whom I had corresponded via email in the preceding months about the trip.  I figured he might know where riding gear might be available between Mackay and Airlie Beach.  Mick said there wasn't anything but kangaroos and skinks (no, not skunks) on that route, but then added that his ex-wife worked in IT for Qantas in Sydney and that he would seek her help applying some insider pressure to locating my gear.  I had no phone, so all this was happening by email and instant messaging on my laptop as the minutes till my departure to Mackay seemed to fly by.  Under any other circumstance, time would have seemed to creep.  The last message I received on my laptop was "I'll phone you."  How? I have no phone!  Shit.

Moments later, over the paging system, I heard "Shrug the Texan, please pick up the courtesy paging phone."  I had to hear it twice because it didn't register the first time.  It occurred to me then that Mick never knew my real name.  To him, I was Shrug, the Texan.  Maybe my luck was turning.  "Hey mate. Mick here."  After exchanging pleasantries, giving my real name so his ex could investigate, and my explaining the meaning behind Shrug, Mick explained to me that someone on his wife's staff was working a project at the Brisbane airport and might be able to help with Customs and the local baggage crew.  Not only was this guy able to confirm my bags were loaded for a flight out of LAX, but he would also be able to retrieve them in Brisbane and arrange to have them forwarded via Virgin Air to Proserpine airport, only 30 minutes away from where I was staying in Airlie Beach.  I was expecting to use up all my free decompression time with a little sightseeing before hitting the Outback.  A four-hour round trip to/from Mackay was not on my agenda, but I would do whatever it took.  Mick's news seemed too good to be true.  The tide (and my mood) had turned 180 degrees in only a few hours.  I hung up the phone, walked outside, and boarded my connection to Mackay.  I managed to dodge the kangaroos and skinks (lizards) and navigated the traffic circles (from the left lane, no less) as I made my way to the Air B&B house that would be my accommodation for the next two nights.  The next afternoon, my host told me that he received the call I had been waiting for.  My bags had made it!  After a short drive, I finally had my gear, only twelve hours before my scheduled departure into the Outback.

I've baked in plenty of time for my bags to be loaded and I'll have two days in Kathmandu before I ride. So, while I feel confident that I've taken all the steps I can to alleviate the unexpected from this upcoming adventure, I am fully aware that the universe will do whatever it wants with/to me. All I can do is plan, hope for the best, and if necessary, count on the kindness of strangers.

Wednesday, January 29, 2025

A Texian in Tibet - Reader Humor

OK, so 2025 is the Chinese year of the snake, but this is still funny.

Thanks T.R.!


Friday, January 24, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Entry Visa Fusterfcluck

"The airline lost my luggage, so I sued them. Unfortunately, I lost the case."
- Anonymous

What a mess! It appears the rules for travel in Tibet have changed. In the recent past, the process was handled by in-country fixers who have political/administrative connections and know how to leverage them. As I wrote in a previous entry, I was supposed to hand my passport over to my fixer and they would magically return with a Tibetan entry permit, My job while the permit was being secured was to wander around Kathmandu, shopping and acclimatizing, and definitely not worrying that I was in a third world country, unescorted, and with no passport in my possession. What could possibly go wrong? Apparently, this was the norm and nobody seemed to experience any drama following the process.

Now, it's different. That the change happened whilst I am preparing for my trip is just my dumb luck. The new rule requires travelers to secure their own Tibetan entry permit, but this permit cannot be obtained unless the traveler first secures a Chinese tourist visa. To secure a Chinese tourist visa, the traveler must list their destination, but if Tibet is listed as a destination, the visa will be refused. It's a classic catch 22.

After numerous phone calls and emails, I think I learned the trick.  There's always a trick. The Chinese visa application requires a destination, but not a flight number. I was advised to list a major Chinese city and a hotel as my destination on the visa application. Apparently, there is no verification and the visa is issued. If, for some reason my itinerary just happens to change, I will still have a valid Chinese visa that can be used for my Tibetan entry permit. I applied online for a Chinese Visa today and I must say, they are thorough. I'm pretty sure China knows more about me than my own family.

Oh, and just in case anybody is keeping track, I am very much looking forward to staying at the Hilton Hotel in Beijing! I'll tackle the Tibetan entry permit next.