Friday, February 21, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Yet ANOTHER Itinerary Change

"Be stubborn about the vision, but flexible with your plan."
John C. Maxwell

I know what you're thinking. He's really never going anywhere. Believe me, I've laid awake many a night thinking the same thing. But this time the change was at my direction and has multiple benefits. I'll explain.

 

The last itinerary iteration seemingly was a result of the airlines conspiring to keep me from taking this trip. I'm convinced there was some curmudgeon with a chip on his shoulder, a red stapler, and a transistor radio holed-up in a dimly-lit basement poking around at travel itineraries for poor slobs like myself and just deciding to fuck with the traveler. OK, maybe not convinced, but it did cross my mind. I'm not privy the systems that connect multiple airlines' schedules and infrastructure, but I'll go out on a ledge and guess that they're infinitely complex and intertwined. I'm actually surprised it works at all.

Since American Airlines and Qatar Airways couldn't seem to put together a reasonable itinerary for me, I decided use AA miles to fly to round trip Doha and to bite the bullet and book my Doha to Kathmandu round trip legs separately...and pay out of pocket for the privilege. This was the only way I could get into Kathmandu and have sufficient time to process my visa to Tibet. Last night, while fighting the useless trivial thoughts that keep me awake in bed, it occurred to me that projects at my job are dreadfully slow and that I might actually have more travel flexibility than I did when I revisited this trip last year. So at 3:00am, I decided to go online and expand my departure date options, whereupon found an itinerary I could live with if I was able to depart Texas on April 8th instead of the 11th. Even better was that the entire trip was available on AA miles with no out of pocket airfares. Even better than that was the fact that this improved itinerary cost me 40,000 fewer award miles than the previous one. It really makes no sense, but I'll take it. In fact, I took it.

So now my itinerary looks like this:

32 Grueling Hours in the Seat

Seems like a long way to go until you consider the route traverses to top of the earth.  

On the bright side, I've never been to Paris or Sri Lanka. On the less than bright side, I don't have time to get out and explore either stop, even if I had visas. As grueling as this itinerary seems, it will land me in Kathmandu with almost four full days to acclimatize and get over jet lag from jumping forward 11:45 hours.

 
At 26 hours, the return trip is no cake walk, but it lands me back in Texas in time to be home for lunch.


This route flies over the future 51st & 52nd states of Canada & Greenland!


 

Thursday, February 20, 2025

AI and Travel

This is interesting. I asked Google's Gemini, X's Grock and ChatGPT AI platforms to generate an image of my flight plan from Texas to Kathmandu. The airport code route is DFW - CDG - CMB - KTM (Dallas Fort Worth to Paris France, to Colombia Sri Lanka, to Kathmandu Nepal. None of the AI platforms got it right, but the results are entertaining.

ChatGPT's First Attempt

ChatGPT's Second Attempt

Google Gemini's First Attempt

Google Gemini's Second Attempt

Grock's First Attempt

Grock's Second Attempt

 

The Actual Route - Generated With Old Fashioned Genuine Intelligence

Friday, February 7, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - More American Airlines Saga - The Fustercluck Continues

"Airplane travel is nature’s way of making you look like your passport photo."
- Al Gore

Just when I thought it was all sorted out. American Airlines screwed me again. I wasn't even surprised this time. When I was finally able to reach a real person on the phone, their excuse was that the seats I booked were no longer available, which was why they seemingly arbitrarily booked me on flights completely incompatible with my itinerary...both outbound and return. The agent offered no reason and showed even less interest. It seemed to take all I had just to keep her on the line. This might be difficult for some to believe, but I am extremely polite and pleasant without being condescending when I am dealing with customer service people. It's is not lost on me that they they probably hate their job as much as I hate having to deal with them. Also not in the lost-and-found bin is the knowledge that they could probably delete my entire trip with a single keystroke.

When I asked where the seats I had booked went...crickets. When I asked why at that instant I could see the exact same seats on the exact same flights available to book on miles or for cash...crickets. I politely ended the call and re-booked my exact same itinerary. I have a pile of points, that allowed me to book the additional flight and then delete the other, although I had to jump through some hoops. The next day, I received an email that my original miles had been refunded into my account and that the taxes I paid were credited to my card. I logged in to verify and the miles were indeed replenished, and then saw the dreaded urgent message notice. Funny how it's urgent enough to flash a tint, easily-missed icon on the screen, but not urgent enough to proactively reach out to me. But I digress. The message stated that the flight I booked the day before had been changed yet again, and with arrival times into Doha that not only prevented me from meeting my in-country fixer with sufficient time to process my Tibet entry permit, but also arrived too late for me to make the connection to Kathmandu that THEY booked for me. At this point, I should have reached out to Elon Musk because American Airlines just discovered a way to launch a human into low earth orbit with no carbon footprint.

[editor's note]
I'm getting myself so flustered that I'm talking to my screen and typing with such velocity that I'm about to punch holes through my keyboard.

With seemingly no recourse and definitely no concern from American Airlines, I decided to start over and yet again, deleted my itinerary and refunded my miles. It was clear to me that the only way I was going to make this happen was to get creative. I used miles to book a round trip ticket from DFW to Doha with an arrival a full day earlier. Then I booked and paid out of pocket for a round trip ticket from Doha to Kathmandu on Qatar Airlines. Knowing that the dildo of passenger mistreatment from American Airlines rarely arrives lubed, I baked in plenty of time on both ends to accommodate any further screwing they might subject me to.

The good news is I will have a minimum of two days in Kathmandu to decompress, acclimatize, adjust to the 10+ hour ahead time zone, and see some sights. It also gives my fixer extra time to secure my Tibet entry permit. The bad news is that I will have to retrieve my bags at each stop and carry them from each airlines' bag claim area to the others' bag check-in. Again, I baked in plenty of time for this and my frequent flyer status at American Airlines is recognized by Qatar Air.

I know that in the long run, all of this will have been worth the hassle, drama, and frustration. I have dreamed of embarking on this adventure for six years. No sense on giving up on it now.

[second editor's note]
While we can all relate to the AI-generated image
at the top this article that resembles Donald J Trump Jr. and Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (thanks ChatGPT), I never take out my travel frustration on gate or ticket agents. If they had the power to control the universe and prevent the passenger angst that weather, maintenance, and their employer's ineptitude cause, they certainly wouldn't be there talking to me. More importantly, I am fully aware that the success or failure of my travel is at their fingertips. They probably deserve far more pay than they make and I couldn't do their job for anything!

Wednesday, February 5, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - I Am Not Afraid



I AM NOT AFRAID


“If your dreams don’t scare you, they’re not big enough.”
- Ellen Johnson Sirleaf


1999 - Y2k is going to kill us all.
2001 - Anthrax is going to kill us all.
2002 - West Nile Virus is going to kill us all.
2003 - SARS is going to kill us all
2005 - Bird Flu is going to kill us all.
2006 - E-coli is going to kill us all.
2008 - The bad economy is going to kill us all.
2009 - Swine Flu is going to kill us all.
2010 - BP Oil is going to kill us all.
2011 - Riding to the Arctic Circle will kill Shrug.
2012 - The Mayan calendar is going to kill us all.
2013 -  North Korea is going to kill us all.
2014 - Ebola Virus is going to kill us all.
2015 - Disney Measles and ISIS are going to kill us all.
2016 - Riding across the Outback will kill Shrug. (this one was almost accurate)
2017 - Zika Virus is going to kill us all.
2018 - Climate change is going to kill us all.
2019 - Crimean-Congo hemorrhagic fever is going to kill us all.
2020 - COVID 19 Virus is going to kill us all.
2021 - MAGA extremists will destroy America.
2022 - Monkey pox is going to kill us all.
2023 - Antimicrobial Resistance will kill us all.
2024 - Trump will hasten the end of democracy.
2025 - Riding to Mount Everest Base Camp will kill me.

Friday, January 31, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Hoping History Doesn't Repeat Itself

"The scientific theory I like best is that the rings of Saturn are composed entirely of lost airline luggage." 
- Mark Russell

When I flew to Australia in 2016, I redeemed AAdvantage miles on Qantas, which is an American Airlines code share partner.  When you cash in miles for international travel, it's common to get stuck with crappy flights with long connections.  Instead of a direct flight out of DFW, I had to connect through LAX, but I saw it as a small price to pay for round trip first class seats.  The connection included hours of layover time, which I used to ensure my luggage made it into the Qantas baggage system.  I'll explain.

The Delta Baggage Solution
Just prior to that Oz trip, I spent 18 months developing and deploying a first-of-its-kind global baggage tracking solution for Delta Air Lines.  Anyone who flies frequently has experienced lost checked bags; as if flying in a post-911 world isn't stressful enough.  During that Delta engagement, I was exposed to all levels of the airline baggage handling beast and I found it fascinating.  The system is so convoluted and complex that the fact that our bags actually make it anywhere truly amazes me.  I was well aware that Qantas did not have a sophisticated baggage tracking system like Delta's and armed with my newfound knowledge of the risks for baggage loss, I was inspired to take matters into my own hands in an attempt to mitigate the risk of my bags getting lost during the transfer from a domestic American Airlines flight over to the international terminal and into the Qantas baggage system.  At DFW, I checked my bags to LAX, retrieved them there, carried them to the Qantas ticket counter in the international terminal, personally checked them in there, and then patted myself on the back.  The baggage transfer loss risk was mitigated to the greatest possible extent to which I could contribute.

My Ride to Brisbane
Fast forward a few hours and I'm in the boarding line for my flight.  When the gate agent scanned my boarding pass, I got the buzz-of-death alert and a flashing red light on the podium.  Yeah, I was that guy in the line at whom other passengers impatiently rolled their eyes and sighed aloud.  I had to step out of the line, go the gate counter, and try to have whatever it was resolved.  The gate agent had a confused, but not overly concerned expression as he furiously typed away at the keyboard.  I admit I felt a bit helpless and somewhat angry, yet all I could do was stand there and try not to piss off the one guy who stood between me and my dream trip to Australia. A few minutes later, I was back in the boarding lane, but my seat assignment had changed.  I was too relieved to complain or even comment and as luck would have it, when I boarded, I discovered that I was one of only two passengers in the entire first class cabin.  So why the seat change?  My ADD mind quickly diverted attention from the seat assignment and focused on all the buttons, storage compartments, and amenities that my micro apartment-sized first class seat had to offer.  I was on my way, drink in hand, and kicked back to enjoy my flight with the confidence that I had taken the proper the steps to ensure nothing could go wrong.
I landed in Brisbane 14 hours later, having gotten just enough sleep while flying to awaken on Australian morning time, thus avoiding having to deal with jet lag.  Another part of the plan successfully executed.  I cleared customs, headed to the baggage claim carousel, and waited.

And waited.

Eventually, having stood alone at the carousel for almost an hour after the rest of my flight's passengers had dispersed, I found myself being surrounded by hundreds of Asians whose flight from Japan had recently landed and were waiting for their baggage to arrive.  18 hours prior, I was patting myself on the back.  Now I was kicking myself in the butt.  I wandered over to the Qantas baggage office and once again, got in a line.  Once I was able to talk with an agent, I learned that my bags were never loaded onto the plane at LAX.  The agent explained that this is not uncommon when bags have to be transferred from one airline to another.  I calmly and politely replied that I retrieved my bags from American Airlines at LAX and then personally checked them in at the Qantas counter.  She then said that the other time this sometimes happens is when bags are checked-in too close to an international flight's departure.  I pointed to the hours-before-departure check-in time printed on the baggage receipts and (once again) calmly shook my head.  After feverishly clicking the keys on her terminal, she finally told me that the real reason this happened was because my reservation had somehow been canceled between the time I checked my bags and attempted to board hours later.  My mind was spinning.  This explained the gate agent's confusion back at LAX.  How he was able to resolve the issue and get me onboard an international flight in first class still escapes me. "No problem", the Qantas baggage agent said.  "We'll have it loaded on the next flight from LAX and forwarded to you."  I was relieved until she frowned and said that the next flight had already departed.

Spirit of Texas Skid Lid
It's just luggage, right?  WRONG!  My rolling gear bag held all my riding gear for the Outback crossing, the departure for which was supposed to commence in just two days.  My custom-fit knee braces and my one-of-a-kind Texas flag-wrapped helmet were among the other necessities in that bag.  As tough as it was, I remained calm and polite, spoke softly, and even forced a smile because I knew this woman was the only person who could help me.  My mind continued to spin as I began to mentally explore the possibility of purchasing the minimum amount of gear that I could get by with in country.  With nothing else I could accomplish at the baggage office, I left my Air B&B address and host's contact info with the Qantas agent who advised me to also fill out the Customs paperwork for my bags so they could be claimed in my absence and forwarded to the nearest airport served by Qantas.  I did so and headed to the gate for my connecting flight to Mackay where upon landing, I would pick up a rental car and drive two hours to Airlie Beach in Queensland.  I hated the idea of leaving the fate of this trip in the hands of total strangers who were probably overworked and whose concern for my predicament could likely be measured in micro give-a-shits. I had no choice.

While I sat waiting for my connection, I decided to throw a hail Mary pass and reached out to an Australian in Sydney (Mick) with whom I had corresponded via email in the preceding months about the trip.  I figured he might know where riding gear might be available between Mackay and Airlie Beach.  Mick said there wasn't anything but kangaroos and skinks (no, not skunks) on that route, but then added that his ex-wife worked in IT for Qantas in Sydney and that he would seek her help applying some insider pressure to locating my gear.  I had no phone, so all this was happening by email and instant messaging on my laptop as the minutes till my departure to Mackay seemed to fly by.  Under any other circumstance, time would have seemed to creep.  The last message I received on my laptop was "I'll phone you."  How? I have no phone!  Shit.

Moments later, over the paging system, I heard "Shrug the Texan, please pick up the courtesy paging phone."  I had to hear it twice because it didn't register the first time.  It occurred to me then that Mick never knew my real name.  To him, I was Shrug, the Texan.  Maybe my luck was turning.  "Hey mate. Mick here."  After exchanging pleasantries, giving my real name so his ex could investigate, and my explaining the meaning behind Shrug, Mick explained to me that someone on his wife's staff was working a project at the Brisbane airport and might be able to help with Customs and the local baggage crew.  Not only was this guy able to confirm my bags were loaded for a flight out of LAX, but he would also be able to retrieve them in Brisbane and arrange to have them forwarded via Virgin Air to Proserpine airport, only 30 minutes away from where I was staying in Airlie Beach.  I was expecting to use up all my free decompression time with a little sightseeing before hitting the Outback.  A four-hour round trip to/from Mackay was not on my agenda, but I would do whatever it took.  Mick's news seemed too good to be true.  The tide (and my mood) had turned 180 degrees in only a few hours.  I hung up the phone, walked outside, and boarded my connection to Mackay.  I managed to dodge the kangaroos and skinks (lizards) and navigated the traffic circles (from the left lane, no less) as I made my way to the Air B&B house that would be my accommodation for the next two nights.  The next afternoon, my host told me that he received the call I had been waiting for.  My bags had made it!  After a short drive, I finally had my gear, only twelve hours before my scheduled departure into the Outback.

Due to American Airlines' screwing with my itinerary, I will be forced to retrieve the luggage I checked in Texas at the Doha terminal and re-check it in to Qatar Airlines for my connection to Nepal. Can you say déjà vu? I've baked in plenty of time for my bags to be loaded and I'll have two days in Kathmandu before I ride. So, while I feel confident that I've taken all the steps I can to alleviate the unexpected from this upcoming adventure, I am fully aware that the universe will do to me whatever it wants with/to me.  All I can do is plan, hope for the best, and if necessary, count on the kindness of strangers.

Wednesday, January 29, 2025

A Texian in Tibet - Reader Humor

OK, so 2025 is the Chinese year of the snake, but this is still funny.

Thanks T.R.!


Friday, January 24, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Entry Visa Fusterfcluck

"The airline lost my luggage, so I sued them. Unfortunately, I lost the case."
- Anonymous

What a mess! It appears the rules for travel in Tibet have changed. In the recent past, the process was handled by in-country fixers who have political/administrative connections and know how to leverage them. As I wrote in a previous entry, I was supposed to hand my passport over to my fixer and they would magically return with a Tibetan entry permit, My job while the permit was being secured was to wander around Kathmandu, shopping and acclimatizing, and definitely not worrying that I was in a third world country, unescorted, and with no passport in my possession. What could possibly go wrong? Apparently, this was the norm and nobody seemed to experience any drama following the process.

Now, it's different. That the change happened whilst I am preparing for my trip is just my dumb luck. The new rule requires travelers to secure their own Tibetan entry permit, but this permit cannot be obtained unless the traveler first secures a Chinese tourist visa. To secure a Chinese tourist visa, the traveler must list their destination, but if Tibet is listed as a destination, the visa will be refused. It's a classic catch 22.

After numerous phone calls and emails, I think I learned the trick.  There's always a trick. The Chinese visa application requires a destination, but not a flight number. I was advised to list a major Chinese city and a hotel as my destination on the visa application. Apparently, there is no verification and the visa is issued. If, for some reason my itinerary just happens to change, I will still have a valid Chinese visa that can be used for my Tibetan entry permit. I applied online for a Chinese Visa today and I must say, they are thorough. I'm pretty sure China knows more about me than my own family.

Oh, and just in case anybody is keeping track, I am very much looking forward to staying at the Hilton Hotel in Beijing! I'll tackle the Tibetan entry permit next. 






Friday, January 10, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Trip Preparations Continue

"The future belongs to those who prepare for it today."
- Malcolm X

Baby Steps.

I'm making progress in my trip preparation. I sent off for my International Driving Permit this week. I thought the IDP was just a racket with no real value or teeth, but apparently I thought wrong. I was unaware that the 1949 Geneva Convention on Road Traffic and the 1968 Vienna Convention on Road Traffic even existed. But there they are and both Nepal and Tibet not only recognize them, but require foreigners to carry a permit from an agency compliant with one of them. An IDP is not a license to drive in any country, but it serves to give notice that the holder is licensed to drive somewhere in the world contemporary enough to actually enforce standards. At a mere $20 to the AAA plus the cost of two passport photos and a postage stamp, it's probably a still a racket, but it's a small price to pay to get my hands on the rental bike and to secure my Tibetan Visa with driving privileges.

Speaking of my Tibetan Visa, I filed the application this week also. I felt like I was sending a resume complete with occupation, education, relatives living and deceased, and a list of all countries visited in the last five years. Most of this information is available through my passport, but I'm not arguing the process. The Chinese don't mess around. I'm told this application will be matched up and checked for inconsistencies with my passport in Kathmandu and then again at the Tibetan border. I suppose these requirements are no big deal given that Nepal was closed to all foreigners as recently as forty years ago and China has been tightening its grip on Tibet for decades.

Nepal also requires an entry Visa, but it appears easier to acquire. One option is to print the application and apply for a Visa upon arrival at the airport in Kathmandu. I've read that the process can take anywhere from twenty minutes to five hours. The other option is to send my passport off to the Nepalese Embassy in Washington DC, which will facilitate my sailing past the Visa Upon Arrival queue. This option was recommended by my in country asset since I have three months before I depart. I still have to complete and submit an online version, which the Embassy reviews it for completeness and any potential issues. If the planets are aligned, they email me a form to print and snail mail back to them along with with my passport and a $50 fee. My passport should be back in my hands within two weeks. I chose this option because it leaves less to chance.

Other ongoing preparations include acquiring the miscellaneous equipment and clothing items necessary to survive the environment, and perhaps a few creature comforts. I'm also putting in three miles on the rower and elliptical trainer at least five days a week. When the weather and my schedule permits, I walk three miles with my dogs past the neighbor farms on my county road.

I can definitely feel the positive results from my conditioning, my eating habits, and from my alcohol abstinence. But, I'm frustrated by slower progress and impact than I experienced when I initially trained for this trip in 2020. I'm aware that I'm five years older, but apparently the difference in aging into my 60s is more impactful than I anticipated. Still, I press on.

Baby steps.


Wednesday, January 8, 2025

A Texan in Tibet - Earthquake!

On January 6th, Tibet experienced an earthquake that measured a 7.1 on the Richter Scale. The death toll so far is over 100 with more injured. The epicenter is said to be near Shigatze, which is my planned stopping point on riding day four of my trip. This area suffered dramatically during the COVID lockdowns and had been getting back on its feet economically speaking over the last year.

I checked in with my in-county contact and was told the tremors were felt in Kathmandu, but no damage was reported. He added that none of his crew were in the field when the earthquake happened and that he did not see any long-reaching effects that could impact my itinerary. Of course I have personal interests in the region's recovery, but I am hoping for the best for the people directly and indirectly impacted by this event.

Updates as they are available.

Friday, December 13, 2024

A Texan in Tibet - In-Country Customs & Travel Tips

"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts." 
- Mark Twain

I've been researching the details that any competent traveler needs to be aware of in order to get the most out of traveling abroad in Nepal and Tibet. First and foremost: There's money!
The Nepalese Rupee (NPR) is Nepal’s currency and as of this typing, 1 US Dollar = about 113 NPR. With that in mind, here's what some common things cost in Nepal:

Cup of Chiya - 70 NPR / .60 cents
Cold Beer - 200 - 300 NPR / $1.50A

Simple Meal - 300 - 400 NPR / $3.50
Hotel Room - $8 to $150

Shopping & Haggling
Nepal is said to be very inexpensive, with prices fluctuating during the height of tourism season. I have pondered the quality and/or hygiene shortcuts that might be taken there in order to meet minimal margin needs.  The cruise industry is notorious for it and yet I still took a cruise in October.  I've read that many Everest climbers and trekkers buy their weather gear from the local bazaars because the locals can tailor whatever you want on the spot at a fraction of the cost, and then sew in whatever brand label the buyer wants. If I were climbing Everest, I seriously doubt I would risk my lifesaving warmth over a few dollars.  I still have riding gear from my Outback crossing, but I may spring for some cold weather riding gloves at a local bazaar because mine were literally worn through during my 18-day crossing.  Piloting a motorcycle over 17,000 foot high mountain passes with frozen fingers and numb hands sounds about as appealing as it does safe. I'm not a patient shopper and I'm an even worse haggler. Haggling is apparently an expected part of life in Nepal markets as long as it's done with respect. I don't expect to buy much in country because I'll be on a tight budget and I'll have limited capacity to carry anything with me beyond necessities.

Tipping
Apparently, there isn't a strong tipping culture in Nepal. Rounding payments up for taxi and rickshaw drivers is common and I've read that sometimes a 10% service charge is included on restaurant bills. I tend to be a generous tipper, so I might be taken for another sucker tourist over there. I just feel like that extra dollar will have more impact on the life of the person working in the service economy than on me.

Currency Exchange
Locations for exchanging money in Nepal are said to be plentiful, so I suppose the trick is to find the best rate.  The pain is accurately forecasting what local currency I'll need; how much in NPR versus Chinese Renminbi (RMB, the currency in Tibet).  I always feel like I get screwed on the exchange back to USD.  Whatever amounts in whatever currencies, I have read that I will have to exchange any NPR back to USD before leaving Nepal because it’s actually illegal to take their currency out of the country.  Also NPRs aren’t accepted or exchanged anywhere else. This fact makes me wonder how Pat Healy got hold of the coins he flashed in "Something About Mary".

Right-Handed Culture
In Nepal, the left hand is literally viewed as the poop hand and its purpose is solely reserved for wiping one's butt!  Apparently, the right hand should be dedicated to writing, eating, hand-shaking, and other polite social functions.
Also, gifts and payments are to be handed-over with the right hand.  I’m ambidextrous, but I write and eat with my poop hand.  It will be a challenge to eat right-handed.  As if the Coronavirus didn't cause us all to keep an eye on people serving us, now I'll be eagle-eyeing anyone serving my food to see which hand they use.

Toilets
I'm used to taking my time sitting until my buns are numb on a nice western porcelain throne while reading a magazine or surfing the Internet while being stared at by my dogs.  As such, squatting awkwardly over an unsavory hole in the ground with flies buzzing around it to take a dump might be a little a bit off-putting the first few times. But the reality is that squat toilets are common throughout that part of the world, and when in Rome... Besides, I've used a Squatty Potty and squatting really does make for a much nicer dump.  I can't imagine the expressions on my dogs' faces if they witnessed me executing a wide-legged standing dump.


Temple/Monastery Etiquette
Nepal is a deeply spiritual and religious country with centuries-old temples scattering the landscape and monks wandering everywhere. I find some of the customs related to temple respect interesting. For instance, temples are always navigated clockwise. That means I would have to walk around the temple again to get to something I might have left behind me. Shoes are considered the most degrading form of clothing (to me, that would be bras) and must be removed when entering temples or a local’s home. I've also read most temples don't allow photography. Walk to the right, lose the shoes, and keep the camera tucked away. Got it.
Water
Despite the clear and crisp glacial streams flowing from the nearby mountains, the overall water quality in Nepal and particularly in Kathmandu isn’t the greatest. In fact, it sucks.  I suppose I can use it to shower, but the tap water there is said to be a funny color and it often stinks. I'm taking a Camelbak and a refillable water bottle and have read that clean bottled water is available everywhere. I would like to have one of those Grayle GeoPress bottles that can purify 24 ounces of water anywhere in the world in a few seconds, but I'm on a budget and the $90 cost of a GeoPress will buy a lot of bottled water.




Bring AC Power Adapters
I've researched this one closely and have learned that there are a variety of AC plugs used in Nepal and Tibet.  I've planned for the worst and picked up an adapter for any outlet I might encounter and I have a multi-outlet power strip that takes 220VAC power and has USB ports to share.




Don't Let Bacteria Die! 
This one sounds odd, but makes sense when fully understood.  Stomach bacteria that are important to human digestion quickly die at high altitude because of lack of oxygen.  Even acclimatizing three to five days ahead doesn't help because the bacteria will be dead by then.  These microflora can be restored by taking probiotics.

Carry Accommodation Information
Don't leave a hotel without its business card listing its phone number and address. 

Don't touch anyone on the head and don't show anyone the bottoms of the feet.

Avoid Yaks - No explanation needed.

Bring extra Passport Photos 
They are required to acquire a Visa at the airport, for trekking permits, and to purchase cell phone SIM cards.

Avoid Shady Dance Bars 
I avoid sunny dance bars.  In fact, I dance like a white guy and generally avoid bars altogether.

I'm sure there is much more to look out for, but encountering challenges and discovering ways to overcome them is all part of the adventure.  I'm not terribly bright, but I consider myself clever enough to get by and deal with adversity.
Got tips?  Email me!

Friday, December 6, 2024

A Texan in Tibet - Every Dead Body...

"The dangers of life are infinite, and among them is safety."
- Goethe

Given that I'm highly motivated to make it home to someday enjoy retirement, I'll stop at base camp!

Image


Friday, November 22, 2024

A Texan in Tibet - The Bike

“Make sure that you always have the right tools for the job. It's no use trying to eat a steak with a teaspoon, and a straw.”
- Anthony T. Hincks
 

This is the bike I'll be riding.  This adventure model was released a few years ago to pretty good reviews.  It's manufactured by Royal Enfield and is (aptly) called the Himalayan.  Royal Enfield is an Indian motorcycle manufacturing brand with the distinction of being the oldest global motorcycle brand in continuous production.  Enfields are manufactured in factories in Chennai, India and shipped around the world.  Honestly, when I think about reliability, my first thought is not "Made in India".  However, 95% of the bikes traversing the Nepalese and Tibetan terrain are Royal Enfields in one form or another.  If these bikes can hold up under those conditions, then who am I to question them? After all, I ride a Harley. But I digress. I've been told you can find Enfield parts in everywhere in Nepal,  I hope I don't have to prove that.  

I don't know how mine will be equipped in terms of bags and racks, but I'll manage.  I'm not overly impressed with the look of that seat, but I spend 90% of my time standing when riding off-road anyway.  The 411cc motor should produce all the torque I need and at 421 pounds, it's heavier than my dirt bikes, but still half the weight of my Harley.  The stock fuel tank is only four gallons, which could prove interesting, but the motor is fuel injected which will eliminate the need to alter the carburetor as I make my way into the upper elevations. All in all, I'm happy with this option and I remain optimistic.

Friday, November 15, 2024

A Texan in Tibet - Altitude Conditioning

‘’The most dangerous thing you can do in life is play it safe.’’
- Casey Neistat
 

I'll be spending the majority of my time in Asia above 5,000 feet.  In fact, the altitude during my second riding day will be above 17,000 feet and will go up an down as I traverse various mountain ranges.  I've snow skied at 12,000 feet and didn't realize any diminished capabilities, but the whole result of skiing is that the skier drops back into thicker air quickly.  Besides, that was more than fifteen years ago and I was twenty years younger.  But I digress.  According to the chart above, I'll be hanging out in the "Extreme Altitude" zone which sounds ominous, but at least it's not the "Death Zone", so I have that going for me.

They key to my stamina success on the Alaskapade and my Outback ride was preparation in terms of proper equipment and more importantly, with physical conditioning.  I lost a few pounds before Alaska and a lot of pounds during the trip, but for Australia, I was jacked when I landed in country; having dropped sixty pounds.  Of course, I had sixty pounds to lose because I had let myself drift into a horrible physical condition wherein my weight ballooned to 240 pounds.  Realizing I would fail miserably if I attempted the Outback crossing at that weight, I plunged into a disciplined eating and workout regimen that catapulted me into shape.  Ten years later, I'm not as fat as I was then, but it's not an overstatement to say I gained most of it back.  So here I go again.  I have all the exercise gear I need in my home and I have the healthiest food I could hope for at my fingertips. I just need to leverage both. I'm on my way and I am convinced that I'll be ready...at least from a weight perspective.

While Alaska and Australia presented physical stamina challenges, these trips did not include the altitude riding I'll face in Tibet.  Always one to be prepared, I started looking into various means of altitude conditioning and found that there is an entire industry built around it.  The foundation of preparedness is being physically fit and I'm on my way there. But, no amount of exercise and healthy eating will prepare my body for the physiological effects associated with increased altitude.  There are numerous options available in the marketplace that cost a fortune.  One such machine chemically alters the atmospheric composition to reduce oxygen content to specified altitudes, and costs about $5,000.  Not gonna happen.  Another alternative would be to have pints of my own blood drawn at my home altitude and then transfused back into me like pro athletes and climbers do, when I'm at altitude in Tibet.  I have plenty of blood.  I just need thousands of dollars and a professional medical staff.  Once again, not gonna happen.  It's no secret that I'm too big of a wuss to even get a tattoo, much less voluntarily endure 18-gauge needles repeatedly to exchange my own blood.  I found a less expensive and slightly less painful alternative.

A company called Viking Strength manufactures a mask that limits oxygen intake and simulates altitudes from 2,000 to 18,000 feet.  It doesn't alter the chemical composition of the atmosphere like the $5,000 device, but it will make me work harder to take in the air around me.  I picked up one of the masks back in 2020 and trained with it on my elliptical, on my rower, and on my hikes.  I typically rowed three miles and climbed three miles five to six times a week.  I also put in a few walking miles in my pastures and the woods near my property a few days a week.  The training regimen became increasingly addictive as the results became more apparent. The pounds melted away and my stamina was over the top.
 
With the Viking Strength mask, I can selectively dial-in a gradual increase in the resistance in airflow through the mask as I continue to train over the next few months.  Some told me this mask and others like it were  all hype, but my experience five years ago disputed that and while at 62 years old the improvements are taking longer to realize, I see no reason why it won't help me now. The key is moderation and starting slow. It's worth a shot even if its only effect is making me look as ripped and badass as the model in the picture above <grin>.  I'm aware that I look like a heavy metal idiot headbanging to loud, fast music while I train. Now I can look like an even bigger dork while I train wearing my motorcycle riding boots and a "Bane" mask.

 
 
 
I'm hoping the mask and my training regimen will facilitate me meeting my physiological expectations, but as an added insurance policy, I'll be seeing a doctor and getting a prescription for Diamox. Climbers take it to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness. Headaches, fatigue, nausea, dizziness, and shortness of breath are common when reaching altitudes above 10,000 feet.  I'll also be taking a portable pulse oxymeter with me to keep tabs on the oxygen saturation level in my blood.  This simple, $10 device, powered by two AAA batteries could be a real life saver.  If nothing else, it could validate my excuses for throwing up my toenails if my training is insufficient and/or the Diamox doesn't work.


Tuesday, November 12, 2024

A Texan in Tibet - Flight Itinerary and In-Country Routes

"Plans are nothing; planning is everything."
- Dwight Eisenhower


My flights are booked and already I have most of the daily routes sorted. Each days' stop could change depending on sleeping accommodations, terrain conditions, wanderlust, and my stamina. I had hostels and monasteries lined up back in 2020 and I'm working to confirm their availability in 2025 as some of the hostels didn't survive the plandemic, or they have changed management. The path from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp is one that is well-traveled and the locals are accustomed hosting foreign wanderers for ridiculously cheap prices compared to the rest of the world. Some of my routes will be far off the beaten path and that's where the monasteries come into play. A safe place to sleep and sometimes a meal can be had in exchange for silence and a nominal donation.

My plans for each days' routes will be posted as I can complete and verify them. My inbound flight route is below.

No description available.
Outbound Flight Path - Dallas, Philadelphia, Doha, Kathmandu

April 12 - 13: Kathmandu Arrival
I am scheduled to land at 1:00am NPT, which will be 10:45 hours ahead of central time in Texas. Strangely enough, the time zones over there are sliced into 15-minute regions. And I thought our Daylight Savings Time habit in the US was odd...  But I digress.
 
Given my arrival hour, I suspect there literally won't be many sights to see, so I'm hoping to just be able to get a ride to my hotel. I'll be traveling for thirty hours straight though four airports; one of which is a complete third world shithole with a mostly bitter and unmotivated staff. OK, Philadelphia Airport isn't a complete dump bucket, but it is among the worst in the US. I could probably sleep standing up by the time I land in Kathmandu and if I can catch a few winks on my flights and after I land, then hopefully I'll awaken bright-eyed and bushy-tailed to function on local time.
 
I'll need to meet my local fixer in the morning and get a visa for Tibet through the local Chinese Embassy. "Red Tape" takes on a new meaning over there and the visa experience will probably be its own entry. I'll have all day the 13th and 14th to get over my jet lag, and I hope to have some sightseeing time after I secure my motorcycle rental. There are a few Americans over there from whom I can get some advice on getting around, and especially the Tibet border crossings.
 
This is all great on paper when in fact, the only things firm right now are my flight schedule and my motorcycle reservation. I still need to sort out several details and the list below will most certainly grow.

-International Driver's License
-Cell Phone SIM Card(s)
-Fuel Availability
-Inter and Intra Country Currency Exchange
-Chinese Customs Entering/Leaving Tibet

A Texan in Tibet - Daily Itineraries and Route Plans

"All you need is the plan, the road map, and the courage to press on to your destination."
-Earl Nightingale
 

Trip Day 3 - Riding Day 1 Plan
Kathmandu to Syabrubensi: 152km - 2,400 Meters Elevation

I think I have day one riding sorted out. Assuming no catastrophic delays, I expect about six to eight hours of riding and photo stops from Kathmandu to Syabrubensi, which sits at 2,380 meters/7,800 feet elevation.  No big altitude deal there, but I'll be traversing some pretty rough mountain passes above 5,000 meters/16,400 feet to get there.  My O2 training mask regimen will apparently pay dividends on day one.

Getting out of Kathmandu in one piece might  be the most challenging part of the entire day.  Once I get out of civilization, I should be able to let my guard down a bit and enjoy the ride.  The map on the left can be interactively viewed following this link.  Zooming in on some of the twisties along the path reveals some pretty interesting switchbacks through Langtang National Park. 

I would really prefer to ride the most northern route out of Kathmandu through Kakani, but April is a rainy month in Nepal and the remote mountain routes might not be passable.  I'm also not sure about fuel availability.  So in the interest of keeping to my plans and adhering to my basic survival instincts, I'll probably ignore Robert Frost and take the road more traveled...at least on day one.
 
 Trip Day 4 - Riding Day 2
 Syabrubensi to Kerung:  60km - 5,470 Meters Elevation

The plan for this day's leg is a short ride split into two segments.  An interactive map can be found here.  Once again, zooming in will reveal some pretty interesting switchbacks and mountain passes.

I will leave Syabrubensi and ride north about 25km/15 miles to the border.  I've read that I should expect hours-long immigration and customs formalities on both sides of the Nepal and Tibet border.  Kerung, Nepal is the last border town where I will finish the first riding segment, complete the Nepali emigration formalities, and push my motorcycle across the Friendship Bridge.  It seems to me that a real friend would let me ride across the damn bridge, but I digress.  Once across, I will (hopefully) meet my official Tibetan guide.  Chinese law prohibits me from leaving "unescorted".  After the Friendship Bridge festivities, I will clear Chinese Customs following what I am told will be a very thorough inspection of every piece of property I bring.

The second leg of the day from Customs to Kyirong town should be less than 35km/22 miles after which I will locate my night's lodging and chill out in what the locals call the "happy village".  The free time will also give me time to coordinate with my guide, do a little sight seeing, plan my next day, and acclimatize to the 5,470 meter/17,950 feet elevation.
 
 
Trip Day 5 - Riding Day 3 Plan
Kerung to Shegar: 340km - 4,280 Meters Elevation

Satellite views and written reports lead me to believe that this 340km/211mile leg could be among the most scenic of the entire trip.  I am planning to ride from Kyirong to Shegar with numerous high-altitude mountain passes, including Kungthang La pass, which rises to 5,236 meters/17,200 feet.  This should be the highest pass I traverse. Interactive link here.
The route should take me past Lake Peigu Tso, which sits at over 15,000 feet elevation (swimming is not on my agenda) and through the Tibetan town of Old Tingri that reportedly offers an amazing view of the Himalayas, Everest, and few other mountains rising above 8,000 meters.  There should be lots of photo ops, which translates in lots of stops, which explains a seven hour riding day for only 211 miles.  I can't blame the terrain, because the Chinese take really good care of the roads in Tibet.

The elevation at Shegar is only 4,330 meters/14,200 feet.  I'll bask in comparatively hick air and should sleep well that night.
 
 
Trip Day 6 - Riding Day 4 Plan
Shegar to Shigatse: 240km - 3,950 Meters Elevation

This will be another red tape day that includes motorcycle inspection for a temporary license plate and a vision test in order to get my Tibetan temporary motorcycle license.  At only 240km/150 miles, this will be another short day in terms of terrain traversed.  The first leg will be a scenic, albeit flat stretch of 150km/93 miles, followed by another 90km/56 miles over a small 4,300 meter/14,100 foot mountain pass into Shigatse.  The interactive map is here.
The second largest city in Tibet, Shigatse is described as a fairly modern city with a population of over 100,000 and sits at an elevation of 3,845 meters/12,615 feet.  Since I can't predict the amount of time I'll spend getting my license and plates, I'll make this my fourth day's stop and see the sights.  In fact, the delays could be substantial enough that I won't get my license until the next day.  If that proves to be the case, I will rise and shine and be the first in line at the police station on day 5.

The main attraction in Shigatse is the Tashilhunpo Monastery, which is said to have been founded in 1447.  I suspect I will get my fill of monasteries before this trip is over.  Shigatse is a primary gathering place for tourists heading to Everest, so I anticipate having the opportunity to meet and talk with plenty of people.
 
 
Trip Day 7 - Riding Day 5 Plan
Shigatse to Gyantse: 90km - 3,900 Meters Elevation

Depending on how my Day 4 plan went, I will either head for Gyantse first thing in the morning, or I will spend the morning at the local police station jumping through hoops to get my temporary driving license.  If the latter proves to be the case, I will make the short 90km/56 mile ride to Gyantse after lunch.  If that red tape shakedown was not enough, the short ride will probably seem like eternity because of the 40km/h (25mph) speed limit imposed by the traffic police.  I'm told there are regular speed traps and patrol cars to strictly enforce the speed limit and that simply paying the fine is not an option.  I have no plan to find out that the acceptable option might be.  I've waited years to make this trip.  A couple of slow roll hours will not kill me.  the interactive map can be found here.
In contrast to Shigatse, Gyantse is said to be a pastoral town that remains untouched by modern expansion.  This could be a quaint and cool thing, or it could really suck.  Either way, I'll spend the night at a comfortable 3,900 meters/12,800 feet.
 

Trip Day 8 - Riding Day 6 Plan
Gyantse to Lhasa:  350km - 3,650 Meters Elevation
This should be an interesting route with plenty of remote back roads and a particularly tricky mountain passage.  As such, fuel management and awareness will be paramount.  If my plans hold, I should ride about 350km/217 miles to Nagartse via the primitive, rocky Simi La pass at 4,200 meters/13,780 feet and then over the newly-paved Karo La pass at 5,010 meters/16,400 feet.  Temperatures at both passes are said to be cold, even in the summer.  Cold temperatures and thin air should make for a challenging, yet interesting day of riding.  The interactive map can be seen here.

Lhasa is a cultural center of Tibet and having ridden six days straight, I plan to take the next day off for some rest.  A day off the bike in Alaska and Australia was a welcome respite on those trips.  It will also afford me the opportunity to sort through my videos and images and maybe do a little writing.  I expect decent Internet access, so I hope to update this blog.
 
 
Trip Day 9 - No Riding Planned 
Hanging Out in Lhasa

"Sometimes the best solution is to rest, relax and recharge. It's hard to be your best on empty."
- Sam Glenn.

Assuming I will have stuck to my previous days' itineraries, this should be a day of rest and respite from the bike. After all, Even God took a day off. Some sights I want to visit include the iconic Potala Palace, the tourist shopping trap known as Barkhor Street, and the Dreprung Monastery. I hope to also find some western cuisine! I'll try to leverage the day off to do some writing.
 

Trip Day 10 - Riding Day 7 Plan
Lhasa to Sakya: 410km - 4,025 Meters Elevation
Currently, my plan is to backtrack towards Shigatse, but skip the Simi La and Karo La passes and traverse a northern route.  This route from Lhasa to Shigatse City is roughly 280km/174 miles, but I plan to bypass the city premises and continue on the outskirts, heading another 110km/68 miles southwest towards Sakya, which sits at 4,025 meters/13,200 feet elevation.  The entire day will only be about 255 miles.  I'll find my lodging and see how much time I have left to see the local sights.  The interactive map can be found here.
 
 
 
Trip Day 11 - Riding Day 8 Plan
Sakya to Rongbuk: 255km - 5,200 Meters elevation - Everest, Baby!

The plan is to ride out from Sakya early and ascend the Gyatso la mountain pass.  At 5,248 meters/17,217 feet, this is the highest pass on this section of my trip and is said to be one of the nine most treacherous roads on the planet.  I think this is due to its altitude more than the actual surface conditions.  From there, I will descend back down to Shegar where I will have stopped on riding day three and then ride out towards the main road to the Qomolongma (Everest) National park.

I will be arriving in the Everest National Park area during the peak climbing season and as such, I anticipate pretty rough environmental conditions and really dusty air on the dirt road leading to the Rongbuk Monastery. The road from the monastery to the town of Rongbuk is said to be well-maintained blacktop.  Traffic will probably be a nightmare, but at least the road is paved.  The whole day's riding should only be about 255km/158 miles.  It's the traffic and repeated switchbacks that tend to lull riders into a sense of complaisance.  This grasshopper will have to focus.

Check out the interactive map and zoom in on the twisties just south of Tingri. 

Rongbuk & Everest
Depending on traffic and the time of day that I arrive, I will try to hit the Everest Base Camp on this day.  If not, I will ride there on Riding Day 9 before heading back to Kyirong Town.  My night's accommodation will be at a basic monastery guest house at 4,980 meters/16,340 feet.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Trip Day 12 - Ride Day 9 Plan
Everest Base Camp - Kyirong: 286km - 5,200 Meters Elevation


This day is kind of up for grabs and really depends on how Riding Day 8 goes.  If I didn't hit the Everest Base Camp on Day 8, I will do so on day 9.  If this is the case, it could make for a very long riding day heading down from the Rongbuk Monastery to Everest Base Camp with all its traffic and then backtracking up again.  From Base camp, I'll ride back through Rongbuk, through Tingri across what is described as the highest plateau in the world (4,384 meters/14,380 feet), and then northwest to Kyirong Town at a mere 2,700 meters/8,900 feet elevation.  The interactive map can be viewed here.  Unless something unplanned happens, the night spent in Kyirong will be my last in Tibet.
 
 
 Trip Day 13 - Ride Day 10 Plan
That's why I'm going to Kathmandu
Up to the mountain's where I'm going to
And if I ever get out of here
That's what I'm gonna do 
K-K-K-K-K-K Kathmandu
Really, really where I'm going to
If I ever get out of here
 
I'm going to Kathmandu - Bob Seger

Kyirong Town to Kathmandu: 161km

If all goes to plan, this day will start with a short 24 kilometer down to the Tibet-Nepal border.  Here, I'll repeat (in reverse) the immigration process of crossing the Friendship Bridge, bid farewell to my Tibetan escort, and complete the Nepali Customs process.  The rest of the day will be consumed by riding back into civilization and down to Kathmandu where traffic signals, lanes painted on the roads, and signs are all mere suggestions that are pretty much ignored by the locals.  I will have negotiated some of earth's highest mountain passes and some over-the-top crazy terrain, yet riding out of and back into Kathmandu will probably prove to be most dangerous parts of the trip.

Depending on my arrival time in Kathmandu, I'll return the Himalayan and check into my hotel to decompress and prepare for my return to the States on April 28th.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Trip Day 14 - Mission Accomplished?

"It always seems impossible until it's Done."
- Nelson Mandela

My departure from KTM airport isn't until the evening and if all has gone to plan, I should spend this day packing for my return, hanging out in Kathmandu, and maybe doing a little shopping.